Alyona Su

It was done WAY BACK when SL was still all shiny and stuff so that logo would "salt-and-pepper" all over the world map the same way the pornclubs and landbarons do it now, except they place stuff in the sky.

PRO TIP: https://marketplace.secondlife.com/p/Get-Me-In-HUD-Teleporter-Hammer/7577257 Works with LMs and SLURLS. ~winks~ Thanks to this HUD I've already been through all the SL15B shopping sims. ~Grins~

Ditto, except: Time Zones mean nothing. What you *really mean* is "SL-Time you usually login". For example I am in Pacific time zone (SL time is RL time for me) - but my RL schedule has me logging into SL at 4 A.M. But if I just said "I'm in Pacific time zone" everyone would think I usually login around 6 or 7 P.M. SLT, three hours after I am logging out for the day Bahahaha! PRO TIP: If you want to know when someone is usually in-world, don't bother asking for time zone; ask for their usual SLT login times.

Just organize your Flickr into albums - and one album can be your v=best stuff: THAT would be your portfolio. Many self-proclaimed "Pro Photograp[her in SL" aren't. It about the vision and style (and not just running Instagram filters - but the actual creative-composing of the shot) - so yes: RL photography techniques very much play into SL "photography" - if you want to be good at it.

I'm wearing a romper and sneakers with leggings in world right now (complimented by gold jewelry, of course). Is this not sexy? Oman. Bursting my bubble here.

@Kytteh Wytchwood - I get what you are asking. So here is the best way to go about it. First: build your portfolio - this helps build your skill. And "skill" in photography isn't about snapping the picture, it's about composing the picture - read up on the web on how to take great photographs in RL - employ those techniques. The fastest, easiest way to build your portfolio is to offer your services for free as in "gratis" or "complementary". It's hard to say no to something offered for free. Start with profile pictures and work your way up. Shop other SL photographers via their portfolios; see what their styling is all about. You need to develop a style that is you and not them. This takes time. Learn the viewer tricks - and the least used/most powerful is the ATL+0 Field-of-View (a.k.a. "zoom" function. It's not a zoom, but rather a narrowing of the FOV that *also* removes lens distortion. ALT-8 to go opposite to widen the FOV (and ALT-9 to reset) Finally: Photoshop is WAY overrated, over-bloated, and overpriced (and I do graphic design in RL, so I am a Photoshop/Illustrator expert). Consider a true photographers tool like those from ON 1 (you should grab the 30-day demos) - because you don't "edit" photographs, you "post-process". Photoshop name is a misnomer, it's designed for illustrators, not photographers. Photographers latched onto it in the early days because there wasn't anything else, but now there is. https://www.on1.com/store/category/desktop-apps/ Focus on these aspects first. LumiPro is great - but it will take practice to be able to work with it quickly, efficiently, and proficiently. So keep at it.

/me breaks out her micro-violin. Starts playing sad music for snowflakes.

So... what is your question?

Hey, Linden Lab: Feature Request - some kind of ESCROW METHOD in the L$ Exchange. That would put a huge curb on this kind of scam/fraud/cheat/unscrupulous behavior.

Ah, okay. Usually about one-half second. (0.5)

FPS should be 24 or 30. So when you say "animation startup" I'm not sure what you are referring to. As soon as you play the animation it is started up. If you want to wave a hand then decide how long you want it to take to raise the arm. if you want one second then the arm is raised by frame 30. If you want two seconds, then it is raised by frame 60 and so on. You set your timing by the number of frames it takes to complete the motion. I recommend spending some time at YouTube or Vimeo and watching as many videos about how to create animation as (like cartoons, etc) as you can because the process is identical for 2D or 3D.

Textures (actual texture or pictures) in SL are the first and foremost lag problem in SL. Always prepare your pictures as though for the Internet in 1995. Seriously. For vendors you want them to rez FAST - that means maximum 512 pixels, 256 is even better. The way to keep them sharp-looking is to run a sharpen filter (twice, sometimes) after shrinking the image. The same is true for object textures. NO ONE is going to notice all that super-fine detail you've added and why you think you need to upload 1024 pixel images (anything larger is shrunk to that by SL anyway, or at least, it used to be) High-resolution vendor pictures are why they remain grey blocks forever and why most people with experience will shop Market Place first (and often only there). When I had an in-world store I'd actually put four products on one 512x512 image (one in each 256-pixel corner) - they rezzed FAST and four products rezzed simultaneously. @AlexandriaBrangwin gets it, (and I'm sure knows what I'm talking about). CREATOR PRO-TIP: Your in-world marketing pictures should be 512 Pixels or smaller. The quality difference is barely negligible when done correctly. Get a clue.

If you suspect copybotting always contact the original creator because ONLY THEY can 1) determine if it is really an issue of infringement and 2) they are the only one who can actually complain to LL about it with a DMCA take-down. I have this happen to me about 8 or 9 years ago when someone saw a pair of prim dragons I created (this was before sculpties and mesh) and a mob appeared outside my sim-sized store. It was seriously torches and pitchforks. Then finally, someone contacted the original creator. he came over, looked at my stuff and laughed. Then he said, "it's not even close". Did that stop the mob at all? Not a bit. It actually got worse over the week. Always be *very, very careful* when claiming something is copybotted (whether it's actual copybot or another method of copy). Notify the creator you believe is being cheated and let THEM decide.

Oh, I do hope I was clear enough to say *my* experience, I apologize if that wasn't clear.

I have Maitreya and Tonic - I keep going back to Belleza, myself (it's the same) - though I figured these would fall under the "extremely rare ones that are worth keeping" part of my statement.

Catwa heads do not require any of the animation HUDs to remain attached - once set the head will continue all your selected animations. As for what @Fionalein ays: Is it usually HUDs that get borked in these situations. In my 13 years (Woohoo recent rez day) I have never seen a body attachment (worn from inventory) get borked in these scenarios as the OP describes. It has always been HUDs (or any scripted object worn as a HUD) - though that's just my experience. As for Modify perms - I have almost never, ever seen a no-modify HUD, other than those barely worth having to begin with, and the extremely rare ones that are worth keeping.

Do not animate (change pose) of frame1 - start with frame 2. This way the avatar does not "pop" into the pose (which it will if you change frame 1) - rather it will smoothly "slide into" your animation if you begin with frame 2. If you want to loop - then set the repeat to jump to frame 2. This also will allow the animation to "slip smoothly out" when the animation is stopped. ALSO NOTE: Only those bones where you change position/rotation will be recorded. The rest will not be animated. So, for example, if you want to make a drinking animation: animate only the arm and hand that will do the drinking (perhaps head and neck also) - that way the avatar AO will continue to work except for those parts you've animated on their own.

Wow - someone's post got SO DEMOTED that it looked like most recent and I replied Bahahahaha. No sense in that now so this post is incinerated.

This is actually pretty common. Unpack a new one from the box. If you don't have the original box (PRO TIP: always save those) - then try to get a redelivery of a new one. Good luck with that. PRO TIP: Whenever you buy anything that comes with a HUD: Always keep the original box - I put mine into a folder I call Backup Boxes. THEN, I create a folder inside that product folder and call it "Backup" and move *everything* that came with that product into that backup folder. Then open the backup folder and COPY the HUD (and any other needed parts) - and then PASTE it into the main product folder. This way when the HUD goes dead (not a question of if, folks, but WHEN) - I can just grab another copy from that backup folder. Some may laugh at my "glitch-paranoia", but after 12 years in SL - I'm the one laughing when I pull that backup out and the other person is crying because their HUD is broke-sh*t... oh, sorry, OP - I don't mean to rub salt into your wound.

You cannot possibly spend one single U.S. Dollar or British Pound or Euro in SL. It is a practical impossibility. Cannot. Be. Done. You buy LINDEN DOLLARS with legal tender. You can only spend LINDEN DOLLARS inside Second Life. LINDEN DOLLARS has been legally deemed to be a "TRADING TOKEN" - it's not even considered to be any kind of currency in a legal sense. Any kind of complaint regarding how much is spent for product or services received inside SL can only go through any legal process is if it is between you and Linden Lab, as they are the only ones dealing with legal tender in any fashion.

I can only say I like the way THIS creator handles his unflattering reviews. To me, this is how it should be done so the potential buyer can see the full story: https://marketplace.secondlife.com/products/11953082/reviews/4298315 https://marketplace.secondlife.com/products/11950777/reviews/4333214

My own "event shopping techniques" are these, if anyone's interested: Time of day plays a big part also (early-as-possible in the day (SL time). If you're not creating Graphic "themes" (or whatever it's called) you should: I just slide my mouse to the icon and choose the preset I call "minimal: - instantly lower draw distance to a minimum and turn off ALL the sliders (more or less) - lots-less-lag thataway. As for actually getting into one of the sims: I land at a neighboring sim, then I keep trying to walk over - continuously. I can usually get into the sim within about 3 to 5 minutes because someone else has apparently just left. And other than texture-loading, lag is not an issue. Just stand still and alt-cam everywhere you need to see. Only move when you have to.

If you read the Group *rules* (at Flickr) it explains everything in relatively simple language. The biggest no-no is sexually *suggestive* or nudie pix, along with I.P. violations and so on. I can see if you highlight, then drag a bundle of thumbnails over to the group how a no-no picture can end-up in there. Recommendation: Don't be lazy. The experienced Flickr users know better: review each picture and add it to any groups from that pictures review page. //JustSaying

Chances are that this law you speak of didn't exist when this thread was created back in 2011. Furthermore, such laws don't apply as Linden Lab is providing everything they promise to give you: access. And that is all they promise. if you don't believe me, read the TOS.

I recommend you do what I do... Whenever you buy *anything* that include *any kind of HUD* - the first thing I do is create a subfolder in there and call it "Backup" (what you call it is up to you) and I move all parts of that outfit/gadget/vehicle/whatever into that backup folder. Then I'll copy that HUD (and any other relevant parts an paste it into the main folder and use those copies. I've had HUD go dead on countless occasions. This way I can just chuck the one I was using and grab a new copy (remember: copy/paste) and all is good again!