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Pirschjaeger Fassbinder

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Everything posted by Pirschjaeger Fassbinder

  1. Maybe it might help to look at popular bodies in wire-frame mode. I stole some pictures from other people to try to make a point. Stolen from: https://avastar.machinimatrix.org/279/help/toolshelf/rig-converter/convert/ Stolen from: http://blog.nalates.net/2015/04/15/second-life-mesh-body-revolution/ (Also an actual article about mesh bodies that might be of some value. I'd consider the Slink body to be optimized compared to others.) Stolen from: https://catnapkitty.wordpress.com/2015/12/05/how-to-not-buy-bad-stuff-in-sl/ Consider if all those polys are really necessary, even when you are looking at the body somewhat close. Would any noticeable detail be lost if the polygons were reduced in certain areas? I'm sure certain areas need more polygons (curves, bendy points) than others. It's a balancing act: You don't want your body to look like the crappy SL default avatar, but you don't want your mesh to be so dense that it contributes to lag problem.
  2. Really? I didn't know that rule changed. I know that certain sites where you can buy 3D models (like TurboSquid) do not allow you to use their models on Second Life. However, does this mean that if theoretically if a site allows uploads of their 3D models that they can be uploaded to Second Life? I also don't know where people would get 3D models that would be appropriate for Second Life. I might have been looking at only free resources, but most models I find are garbage. Most of the time, I find things that would almost require as much work to fix as it would to be to start from scratch. Things like objects that are too high poly, yet still have weird topology with triangles.
  3. 40 textures... that's a lot of things to texture there.
  4. Okay, I was beginning to think I was wasting time retopoing by hand, making sure the edges somewhat align where the base mesh bends. So my OCD is not totally misguided. I do not now about relaxing, but my OCD sure makes me do it.
  5. I have this problem too. I don't mind other people wearing more revealing clothes, but it just isn't me. I just go to a lot of different stores and hope there's a few more modest options. Sometimes there is, but this isn't a particularly efficient way of finding what I need. I also buy a lot of separates. I have a lot of knee length pencil skirts and they vary somewhat in their fitting and rigging, so I can usually find one of those skirts that can fit my various tops. I also sometimes use omega appliers or clothing layers (bakes on mesh) under some things like a lace tube top underneath a top that has some cleavage or tights under a shorter skirt.
  6. I was able to modify the fingers of the kemono bento armature by doing the following: I updated the armature through Rig Converter ➡️ Cleanup Rig. I moved the fingers around. I snapped the base to the rig through Posing ➡️ Rig Modify Tools ➡️ Snap Base to Rig A little bit confusing, it's easy to mix up the two. The "↔️" button should not be selected. It should look like this before snapping:
  7. I was wondering what the hell the "moles" were. That explains it. Thanks.
  8. What version of Photoshop are you using? I use an incredibly ancient version but this is what I do... Make sure the mode is "RGB" if I'm dealing with just a grey texture Start with a background layer (appears as "Background" in italics in the layers tab) of your texture Duplicate that layer as a regular layer Go to the channels tab and create a new channel Select that channel in the tab Paste my alpha channel image Make sure my alpha channel and the combined color image are visible in the channel tab Save as .tga with the save option "Alpha Channels" enabled In the next pop-up window, make sure 32 bits/pixel is selected under "Resolution" Worse comes to worst, I could look at a .PSD of your setup or give you an example .PSD of mine.
  9. I'm (and others are) trying to be helpful here and sometimes we have to ask the seemingly obvious questions in order to troubleshoot your problem.
  10. In order to see emissive masks, you need the "Advanced Lighting Model" setting enabled in the graphics setting.
  11. A picture or few of your "failed" attempt might be helpful in diagnosing what is wrong. Also, it maybe helpful to know what program you are using to make the mesh with. If it is the alpha sorting glitch (as seen here)... You can either... Mix alpha blending with alpha masking to minimize the glitching. For example, your first layer of hair pieces will be alpha masking and the second layer (if not overlapping) will be alpha blending. or... Do what the person suggested at the end of the above post and in here... Order the vertex indices so that the outer meshes appear "on top". Inner/top meshes will have a lower index, while the outer/bottom meshes will have a higher one. Yes, that second post refers to rigged meshes, but I believe this works for unrigged meshes as well. I tried it with my own not-so-great hair example... It's hard to portray in a static image, but the pieces I mean to be on the outside render on the outside and there is no thrashing between these pieces. If you have Blender, you can do this by the "Sort Mesh Elements" tool. More on that tool here... Miscellaneous Editing Tools on the Blender Manual
  12. The reflection texture is really just a modified free reflection map texture that I found. I basically just searched for either "reflection map" or "environment map". I can't seem to find the original link though. But I bet with some experimenting and referencing a couple of reflection map images, you could create your own in Photoshop or any image editor of your choice with a mix of blurred color blobs and gradients. For the emission node, I used the light falloff node (quadratic) for strength. The light falloff node is found under the "Color" section of the "Add" menu. I *think* this may smooth the light falloff, but I'm not entirely sure. You can also smooth the light falloff using that node. I set the strength under the light falloff node to 1.000 in that particular example, but you will need to find the optimum value depending bright you want the light and how far the walls of your "light cube" are from the object being baked.
  13. I typically do this while utilizing Cycles. I usually have a cube with inverted normals that has emission materials for all faces, except for the bottom face. The sides of the cube are textured with a "reflection map"-like texture. The top of the cube is textured with a spherical gradient image. It typically looks like this: I also set the cube to not be visible in the render by going to "Object Properties" ➡️ "Cycles Settings" ➡️ "Ray Visibility" ➡️ Uncheck "Camera". You can adjust how "blurry" the reflection is by either blurring the textures or by adjusting the "Smooth" parameter in the material node. You can probably do something similar by using a "Background" node for the World material. However, I typically use the cube method because it allows for symmetry in the baking texture for some reason I do not know.
  14. I don't know how realistic this sort of shape is, because I would have thought that having large thighs at least in real life doesn't lend itself to having a thigh gap and more to having thighs that touch. But hey, I am a dragon on Second Life and that isn't realistic at all. If you are interested, you can search "shape proportion" on the marketplace, there are a few free to cheap tools there. I've used them to sort of base my own shape on. However, most of them deal with the length of the torso, legs, and arms and the size of the head. I haven't seen one that focuses on the wideness aspect though. Granted that can vary due to weight and other factors, but generally you're not going to see someone with larger thighs have a tiny upper body and a flat belly.
  15. You're welcome! I erroneously thought you were trying to resize them in pose mode. Since I am using RC7, I cannot recall if "Snap to SL Base" was missing or somewhere else in RC4. However, I am glad it works for you now!
  16. You are getting the distortions because you are moving the bone heads and tails around in Pose Mode. You want to be in Edit Mode. Here is how I would approach it. 1. Resize the tail mesh in Object Mode. a. Select the tail mesh and unbind it by selecting “Unbind from Armature” in the Skinning Tools. b. In either Pose Mode or Edit Mode with the armature selected, select the head of the Tail1 bone and hit Shift + S and then select Cursor to Selected. You should see the little red and white circle (the 3D cursor) at this bone head. Be careful not to click elsewhere in the 3D view or this will move the cursor. c. Select the tail mesh again and in the Tool tab and under the Edit section, select Set Origin and select “Origin to 3D Cursor”. d. While remaining in Object Mode, resize the tail mesh to your desired size. The base of the tail should remain at the head of the Tail1 bone. e. While remaining in Object Mode again, go to the Object menu in the header, then look for Apply. From that submenu, select Scale. Note: You can also resize it in Edit Mode, but you will want to keep the 3D cursor at the head of Tail1 and have the pivot point set at 3D cursor. You can set it to do this by selecting the following: Once you done resizing the mesh, you will probably want to return the pivot point back to “Median Point”. 2. Move the heads and the tails of the tail bones to resize the bones in Edit Mode. a. First set the User Interface to “Expert”. It is located in the Avastar tab. b. With the armature selected, go to Edit Mode. c. Align the heads/tails of the tail bones to the resized tail mesh by selecting each bone head/tail and moving them in the Y direction. You will be only selecting the combined head of the bone and tail of the previous bone, and not the entire bone. It should look something like this when selected: d. When everything is aligned to where you want it, go to the Avastar tab and under the Posing section, look for the Rig Modify Tools subsection. Select “Snap Base to Rig” with at least the “Snap to SL Base” option selected. e. Then in the same Rig Modify Tools subsection, select “Store Joint Edits”. 3. Rebind the tail mesh to the armature. This is also covered in the Avastar documentation under here: http://avastar.online/fragment/joint-positions.
  17. Are you using Avastar or the Avatar Workbench? I would probably resize the tail mesh separately and then lengthen the tail bones by moving the bone heads and tails in Edit Mode to fit the resized tail mesh. If it's in Avastar, I would need to know what version to give more specifics.
  18. I cannot promise this will work in Avastar 2.0-23 or at least without difficulty, so maybe this is more for future reference. I did do this personal verison of this example in that particular Avastar version and it worked inworld, but there were no collision bones (like HEAD). I cannot attest the same for collision bones, however. In order to fit some mesh hairstyles, I made the SL default avatar head shape somewhat resemble the custom head mesh. I also had to fit the mesh head some to resemble the shape of the SL default avatar head. This will take some messing around with and a lot of trying hair demos to get it to fit. The purple or wireframe object is the SL default avatar head. Basically, you would have to base your rig on a custom shape which can be done through the Avatar Shape IO or Avatar Apperance panels under Object properties. You may have to start with a new Avastar character rig and then snap the bones in their old positions once you have decided on a custom shape that will fit mesh hair.
  19. I had this problem before with an old bento head I made that used "alpha flipping" for the blinking. I tried this head again on the latest release client (has bento support) of Firestorm and it still works. I am not sure if it will work on the current version of the viewer, I cannot test my avatar head on that verison because it has bento bones in it. However, I think the trick was to separately upload one mesh (export only one blender object) with joint positions and then upload the rest (the other blender objects that make up the avatar) without joint positions. I have since switched to using the bento eye bones myself, but it was a bit of a challenge to get it to look right.
  20. Here is a quick and ugly demo head that I made in Avastar alpha 4 in the same fashion as my dragon head: http://www.pasteall.org/blend/42991 However, this head is only weighed to mHead, mFaceChin, mFaceJaw, and the lip bones. It too shows the same distortions in the lip and chin area when uploaded in world and worn as an attachement.
  21. I tried the latest version of Avastar (alpha 6) to see if my dragon head would be similarly distorted in the mouth/chin area like Teager's horse. I used the Transfer Tool to copy my old rig to a new armature and exported my head with the using the options "Only Weighted Bones" and "Export Bone Layers." I believe I might have also used "Export Bone Roll" in one of my test versions too. My results are somewhat similar to what Teager has experienced.  There is a distortion in the mesh rigged to mFaceChin and possibly in the mesh rigged to mFaceLipUpperCenter. The mFaceChin bone appears misplaced from the original in blender.  Here is how the bones are placed in Blender. The head of the mFaceChin bone is moved from its default position in the armature. I cannot exactly recall if I moved the heads of the two other bones.  One difference is that my teeth (rigged to mFaceTeethUpper and mFaceTeethLower) are fine. I am guessing that it is because I did not move the head of the teeth bones. I just moved the tails. I will keep playing around with it just in case this it is something that I am doing. I figured I would show my results so far anyway. I can send the file over or post it on the JIRA if needed. I am curious if anyone else is still having this sort of problem.
  22. Speaking of sliders and non-human heads, I have been experimenting with the sliders with my dragon head on the latest test build. Some of the sliders work fine and others would create weird distortions such as parts of the mesh poking through other parts of the mesh. Here is just one example: I was finally able to make the head blink using the eyelid bones. So the eyelids were somewhat adjustable with eye size. I could not make the eyes bigger than 50% without either the eyelids not being able to close or them becoming larger than the eye socket itself. However, I was able to make them as small as 24% with some adjustments in the “Eye Opening” slider. I also got varied results with the “Eye Spacing” and “Eye Depth” sliders. Please note: I might still need to play with the weights. Of course, I do not expect the sliders to totally work with non-human heads. However, it still allows for some customization. If I manage to sell it, I think I will at least recommend that the original shape be copied first before editing with the sliders.
  23. Since I was too tired to work on any thing productive, I went and looked at the demo. I was prepared to criticize for it's polycount, amongst other things. However, it was not quite what I expected. Although I am no mesh body expert, I think it was okay compared to others. The body was only 48.594 kTris, made up of 119 objects and added 5490 to my avatar rendering weight. Still a lot of faces, but is less than the popular Maitreya body, which as 108.354 kTris. There was a tiny tiny gap between my dragon head neck (which is made to fit the size S standard size on the classic avatar), but it isn't noticeable and very well could have been that I was up at a really high elevation. The seam hider did not work with the neck of my head. I did like that the boobs resized smaller (around 25%) without looking too odd compared to the Slink and Maitreya bodies. My only real complaint was that I could not get the HUD to change the nail shape. To be honest, I might consider getting it if there were more clothes available, as it seemed to be the one that is most satisfactory to me so far. However, I cover a lot of my avatar with not too revealing clothes, so I wonder if a mesh body is necessary. Personally, I think it is kind of just adds unnecessary additional rendering weight when you are not wearing revealing clothes. In addition, I have not heard about the availablity of the developer kit. If I wanted to have digigrade legs that were rigged, I would definitely need it to make them. For now, I probably will stick with the craptastic classic avatar body and maybe I'll keep an eye on this one to see if more designers make clothes for it.
  24. Any attachment I have attached to the eyeball attachment points has been set at the dead center of the attachment point with no offsets, because that attachment point is always rotating around with the eyes. Any object that isn't would rotate strangely and unevenly in the eye socket.
  25. I tested some of my wing and tail meshes to see if they would resize when avatar height is changed, and it seems like they both remain the same size regardless of avatar height. I even created a new mesh and rigged it to the default wing positions. I don't know if this is supposed to be this way or not. I may have to create different sized tails and wings, which would be fine if I was just selling the wings.
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