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Pirschjaeger Fassbinder

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About Pirschjaeger Fassbinder

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  1. Okay, I was beginning to think I was wasting time retopoing by hand, making sure the edges somewhat align where the base mesh bends. So my OCD is not totally misguided. I do not now about relaxing, but my OCD sure makes me do it.
  2. I have this problem too. I don't mind other people wearing more revealing clothes, but it just isn't me. I just go to a lot of different stores and hope there's a few more modest options. Sometimes there is, but this isn't a particularly efficient way of finding what I need. I also buy a lot of separates. I have a lot of knee length pencil skirts and they vary somewhat in their fitting and rigging, so I can usually find one of those skirts that can fit my various tops. I also sometimes use omega appliers or clothing layers (bakes on mesh) under some things like a lace tube top underneath a top that has some cleavage or tights under a shorter skirt.
  3. I was able to modify the fingers of the kemono bento armature by doing the following: I updated the armature through Rig Converter ➡️ Cleanup Rig. I moved the fingers around. I snapped the base to the rig through Posing ➡️ Rig Modify Tools ➡️ Snap Base to Rig A little bit confusing, it's easy to mix up the two. The "↔️" button should not be selected. It should look like this before snapping:
  4. I was wondering what the hell the "moles" were. That explains it. Thanks.
  5. What version of Photoshop are you using? I use an incredibly ancient version but this is what I do... Make sure the mode is "RGB" if I'm dealing with just a grey texture Start with a background layer (appears as "Background" in italics in the layers tab) of your texture Duplicate that layer as a regular layer Go to the channels tab and create a new channel Select that channel in the tab Paste my alpha channel image Make sure my alpha channel and the combined color image are visible in the channel tab Save as .tga with the save option "Alpha Channels" enabled In the next pop-up window, make sure 32 bits/pixel is selected under "Resolution" Worse comes to worst, I could look at a .PSD of your setup or give you an example .PSD of mine.
  6. I'm (and others are) trying to be helpful here and sometimes we have to ask the seemingly obvious questions in order to troubleshoot your problem.
  7. In order to see emissive masks, you need the "Advanced Lighting Model" setting enabled in the graphics setting.
  8. A picture or few of your "failed" attempt might be helpful in diagnosing what is wrong. Also, it maybe helpful to know what program you are using to make the mesh with. If it is the alpha sorting glitch (as seen here)... You can either... Mix alpha blending with alpha masking to minimize the glitching. For example, your first layer of hair pieces will be alpha masking and the second layer (if not overlapping) will be alpha blending. or... Do what the person suggested at the end of the above post and in here... Order the vertex indices so that the outer meshes appear "on top". Inner/top meshes will have a lower index, while the outer/bottom meshes will have a higher one. Yes, that second post refers to rigged meshes, but I believe this works for unrigged meshes as well. I tried it with my own not-so-great hair example... It's hard to portray in a static image, but the pieces I mean to be on the outside render on the outside and there is no thrashing between these pieces. If you have Blender, you can do this by the "Sort Mesh Elements" tool. More on that tool here... Miscellaneous Editing Tools on the Blender Manual
  9. The reflection texture is really just a modified free reflection map texture that I found. I basically just searched for either "reflection map" or "environment map". I can't seem to find the original link though. But I bet with some experimenting and referencing a couple of reflection map images, you could create your own in Photoshop or any image editor of your choice with a mix of blurred color blobs and gradients. For the emission node, I used the light falloff node (quadratic) for strength. The light falloff node is found under the "Color" section of the "Add" menu. I *think* this may smooth the light falloff, but I'm not entirely sure. You can also smooth the light falloff using that node. I set the strength under the light falloff node to 1.000 in that particular example, but you will need to find the optimum value depending bright you want the light and how far the walls of your "light cube" are from the object being baked.
  10. I typically do this while utilizing Cycles. I usually have a cube with inverted normals that has emission materials for all faces, except for the bottom face. The sides of the cube are textured with a "reflection map"-like texture. The top of the cube is textured with a spherical gradient image. It typically looks like this: I also set the cube to not be visible in the render by going to "Object Properties" ➡️ "Cycles Settings" ➡️ "Ray Visibility" ➡️ Uncheck "Camera". You can adjust how "blurry" the reflection is by either blurring the textures or by adjusting the "Smooth" parameter in the material node. You can probably do something similar by using a "Background" node for the World material. However, I typically use the cube method because it allows for symmetry in the baking texture for some reason I do not know.
  11. I don't know how realistic this sort of shape is, because I would have thought that having large thighs at least in real life doesn't lend itself to having a thigh gap and more to having thighs that touch. But hey, I am a dragon on Second Life and that isn't realistic at all. If you are interested, you can search "shape proportion" on the marketplace, there are a few free to cheap tools there. I've used them to sort of base my own shape on. However, most of them deal with the length of the torso, legs, and arms and the size of the head. I haven't seen one that focuses on the wideness aspect though. Granted that can vary due to weight and other factors, but generally you're not going to see someone with larger thighs have a tiny upper body and a flat belly.
  12. You're welcome! I erroneously thought you were trying to resize them in pose mode. Since I am using RC7, I cannot recall if "Snap to SL Base" was missing or somewhere else in RC4. However, I am glad it works for you now!
  13. You are getting the distortions because you are moving the bone heads and tails around in Pose Mode. You want to be in Edit Mode. Here is how I would approach it. 1. Resize the tail mesh in Object Mode. a. Select the tail mesh and unbind it by selecting “Unbind from Armature” in the Skinning Tools. b. In either Pose Mode or Edit Mode with the armature selected, select the head of the Tail1 bone and hit Shift + S and then select Cursor to Selected. You should see the little red and white circle (the 3D cursor) at this bone head. Be careful not to click elsewhere in the 3D view or this will move the cursor. c. Select the tail mesh again and in the Tool tab and under the Edit section, select Set Origin and select “Origin to 3D Cursor”. d. While remaining in Object Mode, resize the tail mesh to your desired size. The base of the tail should remain at the head of the Tail1 bone. e. While remaining in Object Mode again, go to the Object menu in the header, then look for Apply. From that submenu, select Scale. Note: You can also resize it in Edit Mode, but you will want to keep the 3D cursor at the head of Tail1 and have the pivot point set at 3D cursor. You can set it to do this by selecting the following: Once you done resizing the mesh, you will probably want to return the pivot point back to “Median Point”. 2. Move the heads and the tails of the tail bones to resize the bones in Edit Mode. a. First set the User Interface to “Expert”. It is located in the Avastar tab. b. With the armature selected, go to Edit Mode. c. Align the heads/tails of the tail bones to the resized tail mesh by selecting each bone head/tail and moving them in the Y direction. You will be only selecting the combined head of the bone and tail of the previous bone, and not the entire bone. It should look something like this when selected: d. When everything is aligned to where you want it, go to the Avastar tab and under the Posing section, look for the Rig Modify Tools subsection. Select “Snap Base to Rig” with at least the “Snap to SL Base” option selected. e. Then in the same Rig Modify Tools subsection, select “Store Joint Edits”. 3. Rebind the tail mesh to the armature. This is also covered in the Avastar documentation under here: http://avastar.online/fragment/joint-positions.
  14. Are you using Avastar or the Avatar Workbench? I would probably resize the tail mesh separately and then lengthen the tail bones by moving the bone heads and tails in Edit Mode to fit the resized tail mesh. If it's in Avastar, I would need to know what version to give more specifics.
  15. I cannot promise this will work in Avastar 2.0-23 or at least without difficulty, so maybe this is more for future reference. I did do this personal verison of this example in that particular Avastar version and it worked inworld, but there were no collision bones (like HEAD). I cannot attest the same for collision bones, however. In order to fit some mesh hairstyles, I made the SL default avatar head shape somewhat resemble the custom head mesh. I also had to fit the mesh head some to resemble the shape of the SL default avatar head. This will take some messing around with and a lot of trying hair demos to get it to fit. The purple or wireframe object is the SL default avatar head. Basically, you would have to base your rig on a custom shape which can be done through the Avatar Shape IO or Avatar Apperance panels under Object properties. You may have to start with a new Avastar character rig and then snap the bones in their old positions once you have decided on a custom shape that will fit mesh hair.
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