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Pirschjaeger Fassbinder

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  1. I'm totally okay with dudes thinking I'm a dude just because I don't want to voice chat.
  2. Maybe it might help to look at popular bodies in wire-frame mode. I stole some pictures from other people to try to make a point. Stolen from: https://avastar.machinimatrix.org/279/help/toolshelf/rig-converter/convert/ Stolen from: http://blog.nalates.net/2015/04/15/second-life-mesh-body-revolution/ (Also an actual article about mesh bodies that might be of some value. I'd consider the Slink body to be optimized compared to others.) Stolen from: https://catnapkitty.wordpress.com/2015/12/05/how-to-not-buy-bad-stuff-in-sl/ Consider if all those polys are really necessary, even when you are looking at the body somewhat close. Would any noticeable detail be lost if the polygons were reduced in certain areas? I'm sure certain areas need more polygons (curves, bendy points) than others. It's a balancing act: You don't want your body to look like the crappy SL default avatar, but you don't want your mesh to be so dense that it contributes to lag problem.
  3. Really? I didn't know that rule changed. I know that certain sites where you can buy 3D models (like TurboSquid) do not allow you to use their models on Second Life. However, does this mean that if theoretically if a site allows uploads of their 3D models that they can be uploaded to Second Life? I also don't know where people would get 3D models that would be appropriate for Second Life. I might have been looking at only free resources, but most models I find are garbage. Most of the time, I find things that would almost require as much work to fix as it would to be to start from scratch. Things like objects that are too high poly, yet still have weird topology with triangles.
  4. 40 textures... that's a lot of things to texture there.
  5. Okay, I was beginning to think I was wasting time retopoing by hand, making sure the edges somewhat align where the base mesh bends. So my OCD is not totally misguided. I do not now about relaxing, but my OCD sure makes me do it.
  6. I have this problem too. I don't mind other people wearing more revealing clothes, but it just isn't me. I just go to a lot of different stores and hope there's a few more modest options. Sometimes there is, but this isn't a particularly efficient way of finding what I need. I also buy a lot of separates. I have a lot of knee length pencil skirts and they vary somewhat in their fitting and rigging, so I can usually find one of those skirts that can fit my various tops. I also sometimes use omega appliers or clothing layers (bakes on mesh) under some things like a lace tube top underneath a top that has some cleavage or tights under a shorter skirt.
  7. I was able to modify the fingers of the kemono bento armature by doing the following: I updated the armature through Rig Converter ➡️ Cleanup Rig. I moved the fingers around. I snapped the base to the rig through Posing ➡️ Rig Modify Tools ➡️ Snap Base to Rig A little bit confusing, it's easy to mix up the two. The "↔️" button should not be selected. It should look like this before snapping:
  8. I was wondering what the hell the "moles" were. That explains it. Thanks.
  9. What version of Photoshop are you using? I use an incredibly ancient version but this is what I do... Make sure the mode is "RGB" if I'm dealing with just a grey texture Start with a background layer (appears as "Background" in italics in the layers tab) of your texture Duplicate that layer as a regular layer Go to the channels tab and create a new channel Select that channel in the tab Paste my alpha channel image Make sure my alpha channel and the combined color image are visible in the channel tab Save as .tga with the save option "Alpha Channels" enabled In the next pop-up window, make sure 32 bits/pixel is selected under "Resolution" Worse comes to worst, I could look at a .PSD of your setup or give you an example .PSD of mine.
  10. I'm (and others are) trying to be helpful here and sometimes we have to ask the seemingly obvious questions in order to troubleshoot your problem.
  11. In order to see emissive masks, you need the "Advanced Lighting Model" setting enabled in the graphics setting.
  12. A picture or few of your "failed" attempt might be helpful in diagnosing what is wrong. Also, it maybe helpful to know what program you are using to make the mesh with. If it is the alpha sorting glitch (as seen here)... You can either... Mix alpha blending with alpha masking to minimize the glitching. For example, your first layer of hair pieces will be alpha masking and the second layer (if not overlapping) will be alpha blending. or... Do what the person suggested at the end of the above post and in here... Order the vertex indices so that the outer meshes appear "on top". Inner/top meshes will have a lower index, while the outer/bottom meshes will have a higher one. Yes, that second post refers to rigged meshes, but I believe this works for unrigged meshes as well. I tried it with my own not-so-great hair example... It's hard to portray in a static image, but the pieces I mean to be on the outside render on the outside and there is no thrashing between these pieces. If you have Blender, you can do this by the "Sort Mesh Elements" tool. More on that tool here... Miscellaneous Editing Tools on the Blender Manual
  13. The reflection texture is really just a modified free reflection map texture that I found. I basically just searched for either "reflection map" or "environment map". I can't seem to find the original link though. But I bet with some experimenting and referencing a couple of reflection map images, you could create your own in Photoshop or any image editor of your choice with a mix of blurred color blobs and gradients. For the emission node, I used the light falloff node (quadratic) for strength. The light falloff node is found under the "Color" section of the "Add" menu. I *think* this may smooth the light falloff, but I'm not entirely sure. You can also smooth the light falloff using that node. I set the strength under the light falloff node to 1.000 in that particular example, but you will need to find the optimum value depending bright you want the light and how far the walls of your "light cube" are from the object being baked.
  14. I typically do this while utilizing Cycles. I usually have a cube with inverted normals that has emission materials for all faces, except for the bottom face. The sides of the cube are textured with a "reflection map"-like texture. The top of the cube is textured with a spherical gradient image. It typically looks like this: I also set the cube to not be visible in the render by going to "Object Properties" ➡️ "Cycles Settings" ➡️ "Ray Visibility" ➡️ Uncheck "Camera". You can adjust how "blurry" the reflection is by either blurring the textures or by adjusting the "Smooth" parameter in the material node. You can probably do something similar by using a "Background" node for the World material. However, I typically use the cube method because it allows for symmetry in the baking texture for some reason I do not know.
  15. I don't know how realistic this sort of shape is, because I would have thought that having large thighs at least in real life doesn't lend itself to having a thigh gap and more to having thighs that touch. But hey, I am a dragon on Second Life and that isn't realistic at all. If you are interested, you can search "shape proportion" on the marketplace, there are a few free to cheap tools there. I've used them to sort of base my own shape on. However, most of them deal with the length of the torso, legs, and arms and the size of the head. I haven't seen one that focuses on the wideness aspect though. Granted that can vary due to weight and other factors, but generally you're not going to see someone with larger thighs have a tiny upper body and a flat belly.
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