Aquila Kytori

Judging by your replies I guess no one has had this happen before? hmmmmmmm......... ? On the inside of a medieval helmet perhaps not but on Teapots .... http://community.secondlife.com/t5/Building-and-Texturing-Forum/Photoshop-Gradient-pink-red/m-p/1814339/highlight/true#M8316

I think Hieronimos is asking about the lack of smooth blending from light to dark : (tree ring effect) : My guess is something in your viewer Preferences needs to be adjusted . Do you get the same effect when you apply your texture to a flat surface?

hi The "nano" mesh and the extra triangle/face have to be the same mesh object for it to work. Watch again the French tuto and at 1:47 you will see that he adds the cube in EDIT mode . Thats where i think you are going wrong . Also get into the habit of aplying scale and rotation before exporting to Collada. (In Object mode, from the header Object>Apply>Rotation and Scale.) One more thing when in the Collada export window go to the Export COLLADA panel ( lower left of the screen ) and check the Selection Only box. This means only the object/objects you have selected to be exported will be exported . note: If necassary you can Join to sperate mesh objects in Blender by shift selecting them both and then using the Ctrl+J shortcut.

hi again For someone to say where you are going wrong you really need to explain your workflow . But in the mean time ..........and i'm NOT a Maya user ......... Create a cube in Maya, select 3 of the cubes faces , right click and select Assign New Material. From the menu choose Lambert, give it red colour and change the material name to Red . Repeat for the other 3 faces, making them blue and give them the material name Blue. Upload to SL Rez and Edit the uploaded cube....... are you able to make, for example the red faces invisible without changing the blue ones ?

Hi This question was asked a couple of weeks ago aswell. As chosen has already said add some extra geometry (1 or 2 triangles) to make the overall size (bounding box) of your mesh bigger and give them a separate material which you can then make 100% transparent when rezzed in SL. Then , in SL, you will be able to scale down without distortion so that the visible part can be a lot smaller than 0.01 meter. Explained in pictures here : http://community.secondlife.com/t5/Mesh/When-exporting-from-blender-to-SL-how-to-reduce-to-make-a-tiny/m-p/2038219#M21886

lol I guess if you have already signed of your design for production then you will have to.

Hi Jumbo I don't use 3DMax but watching your video I was asking myself if your are allocating enough pixels/meter ? So I made a copy of your UV texture and had a look . If my calculations are correct your house is approximately 25m x 20m So with your UV layout thats approximately 15 pixels per meter. Your original roof tiles and brick textures have quite alot of detail in them but you are only allowing like 8x5 pixels per roof tile, could this be the reason why the final baked texture is looking blurred ? While your waiting for another 3Dmx user to comment perhaps you could try editing your UV layout to give more pixels to the walls and roof. Edited to add:Could someone suggest a reasonable pixel/meter ratio to aim for when using similar roof or brick textures ?

Something I had never noticed before is the Ruler/Protractor at the bottom of the Tool Panel . It uses Ctrl + Drag to snap to and works in both Edit and Object mode, but I don't seem to be able to get it to snap very precisely , (need more practice ) for details

Hi Just to add , in Mesh display check Edge Length then when you select an edge in Edit mode it will indicate its length.

...........just being practical ............. and welcome back to the forum @ Chosen, Someone as capable as yourself has no need to wonder . Mesh up a German style toilet , they have a special "inspection" shelf built in , set it up at any info hub and pay people L$10 to " sit " and after 10 mins "eject" then collect results for analysis. Best to wear a white lab coat and carry a clipboard otherwise you may attract unpleasant comments . ( Lets hope a moderator doesn't come along and decide your post should be transferred to the General section of the Forums ! )

Water is looking good .............. Cleanability is an important factor in lavatory design and one of the major considerations when buying . If you have the choice between a "wipe clean " or "get down on your hands and knees with a toothbrush to scrub at all the awkward corners to clean" toilet which are you going to choose ? No brainer , right ? Advice from the expert

hi Glad you got your problem sorted .................2 things ...........Ummmmmm ......... your toilet has a design fault ! The opening for the take-away pipe appears to be way to high which would result in not all of the contents of the bowl being flushed away . No I'm not a plumber but a while ago , and I can't remember why exactly, I also modeled a toilet and did a Google search on toilet design and how they work . So yes that does qualify me to be the the forum expert on toilets. lol The other thing is the "animated water" . Of course there can be many reasons why the water at the bottom of the toilet bowl is animated , could indicate you have a Trex wandering around in your kitchen , desperate spider wishing he had taken swimming lessons , earthquake............... or the toilet is in use . Which, if any of those is the effect you are going for ? Just wanted to point out that most of the time the water in a toilet is quite still .

hi many people have wondered how to do that ...........have a look at this thread : http://community.secondlife.com/t5/Mesh/Testing-MESH-on-a-Beta-Grid/m-p/2048549#M21977

I found that with the floor textures I was experimenting with today that the best effect I could get was with lots of Glossiness,very little or no Enviromental shine and with the Specular Colour set to a reasonablly dark grey colour :

Hi This isn't exactly answering your question but if you haven't come across this video before you may find it worth watching :

Avatar Workbench : http://blog.machinimatrix.org/avatar-workbench/

Hi As Rhys has already explained : You will probably have to redo the IP Quiz again for the Beta grid .

Hi Codewarrier explains the importance of edgflow and topology, with examples, here : http://community.secondlife.com/t5/Mesh/Topology-the-often-neglected-entity/td-p/1922789

Try to be economical with the geometry. I don't think Importing a circle in the form of a .svg file is a good idea in this case because I don't see where you can control the number of vertices that make up the circumference . I have just tried creating a small and a larger circle in Inkspace, saved as .svg , imported and converted to mesh and both times I ended up with a circle using 96 vertices to make up the circumference. That's alot when you think 20 to 24 is adequate for the circumference used in making a 1 meter diameter car wheel for use in SL. Your circle for the earring is less than 100th the diameter of a car wheel so best is create the circle in Blender where you get to choose the number of vertices I would suggest 6 to 12 for such a tiny object . When modeling work with a 1 to 1 scale. In the default setup of Blender 1 Blender unit = Meter in SL Work with a complete Avatar mesh on a different layer then you can Shift select this layer from time to time to remind yourself just how small the item is that you are making and you will get some idea about the mesh density relative to size.

hi The minumum size of a mesh along any of its axis is 0.01meter . To get around this you need to add extra geometry to make the overall bounding box size larger . This extra face/triangle needs to be given its own material which once rezzed you can set its texture to fully transparent . The visible part of the mesh can now be reduced in size.

hi At least half of the things I model never get finished because I hit a wall when I get to texturing .I sometimes spend hours UV unwrapping and arranging the UV islands then bake AO and ............never get any further because all attempts at texturing end up a mess . the problem is i'm not an artist . So I won't be offended if you think my advices is "crap" LOL. I came across this video : http://www.blenderguru.com/videos/how-to-make-cherry-blossom-flowers/ thought of this post and was hoping to pick up some texturing tips but ..........nope ( have a look at around 33:00 how he does his stems ) but I link to the video anyways because it may inspire you to try cherry blossoms in your next model. Back to roses........ I think of rose petals as more velvety than silky could that be where you are going wrong ? Anyways I thought I would try to create a rose petal texture ....I'm guessing that you created one petal , UV unwrapped it and then made copies using the first petal as the base for all the rest . After finding a ref. image of a rose petal I started with a blend top to bottom of a dark red to full red and a blotch of white at the bottom I added some darker streaks on a separate layer , gave them alot of Gaussian blur then merged the 2 layers. Added some dark splotches at the lower corners then used the smudge tool until it looked like it could be a rose texture. Then made a copy of that layer and gave it a little blur and then for a velvety effect I tried using some noise filters on it , just experimented untill I thought it would work . I changed the layer mode of that upper layer to Grain merge (Gimp) which seemed to make it brighter and sharper and finally on another layer using a sponge brush added a hint of highlighting near the top . If you are still stuck with your texturing you have nothing to loose by trying this texture and moving the UV vertices about to see if u can get it to work . I would suggest using a simpler , more uniform dark red for the outer face of the rose petal with a touch of noise.

hi, Just throwing my L$0.02 into the hat ............ Try to avoid uploading 100's of parts and think using as few textures as possible , ie filling spare space on the main UV texture with UV unwraps of the other uploads so they share one texture. And think about optimising your mesh by removing vertices that will not be seen : Think about how u can use less Uploads: ( I mean, Upload these two parts as seperate Uploads ) Boxy shapes are the surest way to get physics right (Analyse in the mesh uploader) and as arton has already mentioned the max Phys weight for a driavable vehicle in SL is 32 so the wheels, once linked can be set to Physics shape None. Lots to think about when uploading a complicated vehicle like yours. If I was you I would first find a script package and checkout what they are capable off. You could take a look here : http://kcp.wikidot.com/wiki:about

Hi You can Assign each bangle a separate material in Blender, ( SL Uploader allows a maximum of 8 materials asigned to each mesh) and then in world you can select each bangle by Face Select in the Texture tab of the edit window and give it its own colour shininess or Texture. Here I only explain how to Assign a material to each bangle and and then unwrap all together so that they share the same UV map. This means that you can use the texture on some of the bangles and simple colours with shiny to get a gold or silver effect etc on others. It is possible to give each bangle its own UV map/own texture but for such a small item using so many different textures would be very extravagant. First you need to mark seams on each bangle so that it can be unwrapped properly. select 1 horizontal and 1 vertical edge loop per bangle . Try to put seams where they will not be noticed when the mesh is rezzed : Next Assign each bangle its own material by selecting a bangle and hitting the + button, give it a name and then hit Assign. I gave each material a different colour but its best if you leave them white and add colour when Inworld. Edited to add : don't use a space in the Material name , if I remeber correctly this causes errors in the uploader. So for example bangle1 or bangle_1 is ok but not bangle 1 Unwrap, Selct all the bangles and U to open the Unwrap menu and select Unwrap : Next is to clean up the UV unwrap to make it more user freindly. This means straightening the edges some . I made all my bangles the same number of vertical loops which means even though some of the islands are longer than others if I allign by scaling the longer ones in the X axis so that the islands are all the same length i can now box select by vertical row and straighten them selection by selection. If yours has different numbers of vertical loops in each bangle you will have to select each bangle/edge in the UV editing window one at a time . ( Yes somethimes it takes longer to sort out UV maps than it does to do the actuall mesh modelling ) Last thing, move and scale the islands so that more of the UV space is used up. I sorted mine by material number/top to bottom , Anything you do to help you remember which part of the UV unwrap corrosponds to which part of your mesh is usefull when you come to the actuall texturing in Gimp or Photoshop . Thats it Now you need to save your UV unwrap so that you can open it in your Image editing programme and do the actuall texturing . In the UV/image eiting window header : UV's > Export UV Layout

ooooooops , my silly play on your name .......TXT was my way of suggesting if you found the coming possibility to use Normal and Specular maps exiting and did some experimenting with them , you may find that you (Taylorll Xmade Textures) are able to give some of your existing textures a make over .

hi xIITaylorIIx wrote: I actually have 2 TB of textures but it's your usual wood, your usualy stone, your usual this and that ... was looking for more "exciting" stuff and was wondering if there was a specific company that made outstanding textures, a little different Have u tried TXT (Taylorll Xmade Textures) Google for: SL normal spec maps and have a look at some of the videos. If you find this type of textures exiting then, Download the SL Project Material Viewer from : http://wiki.secondlife.com/wiki/Linden_Lab_Official:Alternate_Viewers (In Preferences>Graphics>Advanced>you will need to have Advanced Lighting model activated) Check out this tutorial on how to find, install and use the Normal Map plugin for Gimp: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Jdo3ZmtPWk Search for Tuorials on creating Specular maps............... Edited to add :