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Kyrah Abattoir

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Everything posted by Kyrah Abattoir

  1. Kyrah Abattoir

    Catwa

    Those are strictly for textures.
  2. This might not work for you depending of the textures but here is an ultra low poly option: And here the same but with tweaked vertex normals:
  3. What's the total tricount & VRAM usage? How can you give us an LI value without LOD models or even a collider?
  4. Kyrah Abattoir

    Catwa

    I'd message them directly but if you can't find it it is entire possible that they simply don't provide one.
  5. If you are new at making meshs, don't use Marvelous Designer. Learn Blender (or another generalistic 3D package) first because you need to learn how to model/cleanup/unwrap/optimize and rig a model first anyway, and you can't do any of those from MD (or not well).
  6. To go more in depth with explanations: Second Life doesn't trust creators to upload models with a sane bounding box or point of origin for meshs (understandable) Objects in SL cannot be smaller than 1x1x1cm. What @Aquila Kytoriis doing is essentially adding a piece of invisible geometry that makes your object's bounding box larger than it would normally be. As with everything, use your best judgement on how big the new bounding box should be and no more than that.
  7. Kyrah Abattoir

    Catwa

    Have you considered asking the creator?
  8. My bad i must have missed it, but in my text I did say, "all quads" only matter for subdivision, but I was under the impression that this was your low-poly. By "low-poly" I always refer to the "to be uploaded in SL" model.
  9. Keep in mind that "quad only" doesn't really apply to low polygon modeling, (with a notable exception on joints). The rightmost example you have is intented for subdivision modeling, but in low poly you typically want to avoid this sort of extreme quad shapes. The reason it shades poorly is because the two "triangular" quads are creating two extremely thin triangle that cause the shading to pinch. Quads can be deformed a lot before they triangulate improperly, but you typically want to avoid having 3 points of a quad in a row. (in blue, how those quads triangulate) I would dissolve the green marked edge so your transfer uses 3 triangles instead, for a low polygon mesh it will look just fine. Likewise, that 3 to 1 on the left is nice, but completely overkill for low poly. Rules: Highpoly/Subdivided: Always use quads, triangles pinch in subdivision unless they are in a perfectly flat section. Lowpoly: Use quads as much as possible, but having triangles here and there is ok as long as they aren't close to an animation joint. This isn't the cleanest topology in the world, but you can see a generous amount of triangles As long as they aren't basically everywhere, and as long as they aren't in problematic areas (for rigged items), if the shading looks okay, it's probably okay.
  10. Wrong forum section.
  11. Check that you haven't setup a telehub too, it overrides everything I think.
  12. A note on make things more round, this is a really old model of mine but it illustrates a method I use sometimes when i need a rounder "rim" on something but also do not want to add an entire new edge loop.
  13. @Butler OffcourseLighting in SL can be a bit hit & miss, if you work with materials you typically don't have to pump as much details into your diffuse as you would if you don't use materials at all. The main issue that can arise is that a too deep shading of the diffuse texture, or baked in specular highlights have a tendency to negate the ones added by your material. Also a note on reflective surfaces, don't necessarily trust your bake to be accurate, the appearance we know as "chrome" and other polished surfaces is really just a reflection of their surrounding, which is something that you CAN bake, but you have to use your best judgement there. you want "something" in your diffuse texture that says "metallic", for when specular/environment fail to convey the message. But something too busy or too detailed will end up looking like a blotchy surface as soon as the camera moves.
  14. It isn't strictly in the center you can pick center, first, and last selected vertice, it's in the menu that shows up when you hit M. the last selected element shows in bright orange, vs dark orange (sorry colorblind folks ) .Numerous tools in blender allow you to do something to all selected elements, with the last selected element as some sort of reference. You might be able top use cleanup, but make sure that you removed the internal faces first, and also double check that cleanup didn't do something undesireable, the "main" use of cleanup is to fuse vertices that have been places on top of eachothers but haven't been fused. (not the only use but the most common because the larger gap you set, the more chances it is going to swallow more than you wanted)
  15. I don't know how proficient you are with the knife tool & plain geometry manipulations, If you don't, I would recommend getting at least some basic practice in a separate project for operations like splitting/joining faces, deleting/creating faces, because these will save your life and a ton of frustration when its time to fix something that you accidentally broke. So this is a very "brief" explanation: you first want both objects you are joining to have the same number of vertices on each side of the cut, you can use the knife too to insert triangles here and there if you don't want to add a complete new row of edges. (Excuse the mockup) When you insert edges with the kinfe too it is important to avoid creationg too many triangles if possible (but they are not forbidden) and stay with quads , that means all vertices will have at least 3 edges at all times. Next you open both objects where you want to mend them together. By selecting the faces that would be inside the connection and deleting them. You can then weld the vertices two by two (M key for me but i don't know if that's standard), in the case of this type of piping you'd merge the outer side to the piping to avoid deforming the piping. Once done you are left with this and the seam should be completely closed, from that point you are done. But if you want to part it you then can mark the edge as "sharp" (again maybe i'm assuming too much there?)
  16. @Butler OffcourseDon't think I'm throwing you needless praises, but this looks very good and is a much better high LOD than easily 95% of what passes as "professional" in SL. I PERSONALLY would join the piping and surface so they are the same piece of geometry rather than "touching" as it will also help you reduce it further when you make (at least) a hand-made medium LOD model.
  17. Another thing on UVs, not everyone will agree on this, but avoid rotating your UV islands at 45° or other weird angles unless you have the perfect gap to fill, try to keep your island width/height lined up with horizontal or vertical if you can. You can also stretch your islands non-uniformly to better fit your UVmap, and reduce gaps (which you can't do with diagonal parts) If you only have those two islands (represented as my blue rectangles), they can easily packed into a 512x1024 rather than a 1024x1024. Typically the more islands you can cram in one map, the more options you have to make it as tight as possible. Slightly non-square pixels are usually fine as long as you don't exagerate. As @Quarrel KukulcanMentioned you need a gap between your islands, my personal rule is 4 pixels from the texture edge, and 8 pixels between islands themselves (this is to still have a buffer for partially loaded textures at 1/2 and 1/4 resolution) Oh and a last thing, it can be beneficial to shrink down less important UV islands, the inside of the shoe will almost never be seen under normal use, same for the sole, so you can shrink them a bit if it gives you a better fit, to favor the parts that people will see the most. Again, don't exagerate, but i have lots of models where the "inner" areas are basically at half resolution. Depending of the texture you can sometimes get away with completely non-uniform scaling, if the texture details are mainly going along the horizontal or vertical axis (ribbed pipes, creased leather, etc...)
  18. @Butler OffcourseI got tired of bumping them
  19. At least you guys make it easy to know which creators to avoid. @rasterscanGiven Epic's reputation the license on the output files is most likely gonna be spicy.
  20. 2007, your concept of good seem very subjective. And that's one of the problems with the script library, it is horrifyingly outdated. LSL and our understanding of it considerably evolved since this script was written. Hell, the mono compiler became the default in 2008.
  21. If your mesh cost 11KL$ to upload you *****ed up somewhere when preparing your files. I'd save those 11KL$ and put them towards buying an avastar license.
  22. you could also drop messages where llGetOwner() != llGetOwnerKey(sender) (to clarify) Since, I understand that this is a hud for some item, I assume there will never be a case where a valid message will be sent by a hud owned by someone who isn't also the owner of the receiver?
  23. http://wiki.secondlife.com/wiki/LlAngleBetween can also be useful there
  24. @Aquila KytoriYup, i forgot if it's 512 or 1024 to get one checker per pixel.
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