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Bitsy Buccaneer

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Everything posted by Bitsy Buccaneer

  1. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Simple mesh pillow - 13 prims?

    Remove doubles and make the lowest from scratch. Will try both of those. TY.
  2. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Simple mesh pillow - 13 prims?

    Oh wow. That is really cool. My object looks fine, just like yours, but the UV is messed up. It's less messed up when I don't check UVs than when I do. Went to the beta grid and download is an unhappy 1.7. Triangle and Vertice counts are 1246, 744; 448, 296; 168, 128; 42, 48, so I have managed to end up with a hunk of unneeded vertices. (One more example of how important the lowest LoD is for LI here, as was talked about earlier.) I started with a plane, loop cut 15 vertically and horizontally, then extruded. I stopped my cloth collision animation a click after you did, I think; my pillow is a bit more indented at the sides and poofed up in the middle. But that doesn't change numbers, at least in blender. And since my numbers are higher than yours from the start, it seems my less efficient technique happened early and carried through all of the LoDs. I just can't figure out where. Letting the mesh uploader generate a lowest LoD gets me a good LI, but the corners disappear when camming out. It's a small thing, I just want to learn best practice. Thank you for your help. You and a couple others have had a hand in pretty much every mesh piece I've made, both directly and through your replies to others in the archives. It is very much appreciated.
  3. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Simple mesh pillow - 13 prims?

    Drongle McMahon wrote: Roligf's cishions make the point, but here is the picture I promised anyway; LOD & physics meshes; inworld with test texture and nice material (0.5m square); upload triangle counts.  Hello Drongle and other kind people, I learned a method of making a pillow by using cloth collision to poof up a loop cut plane. I can get results which look like the first three LODs, although somehow with more triangles (approx 1300 for the high, 448 for the med, etc). But I cannot figure out how to achieve the set up used for the lowest. Removing that last set of loops very near the edge leads to strange distortions which are unusable in SL (some of the corners flatten out) and every way I've tried to duplicate the pictured lowest LoD from scratch leads to "Invalid region to join boundary faces" errors. What's going on with the distortions is a question I'm curious about, but right now the help I'd appreciate most is suggestions on how to achieve what Drongle has done here. I've completely run out of ideas on things to try. This is all in the name of learning to make the best most efficient geometry for SL, so many thanks to all of the people whose archived posts have helped so much.
  4. Bitsy Buccaneer

    2 owners for a same Shop?

    Revenue sharing means one person ends up with control of it all, which has a lot of potential to go wrong even with the best of intentions and friendship. Something as common as too much RL going on could lead to all sorts of complications if the person owning the marketplace shop has to leave SL for awhile. My guess is that revenue sharing is probably better used for a few items rather than an entire shop or with very trusted friends who are building collaboratively. If you're creating independently and want to share traffic, try putting links to each other's shops in the text sections of your own. It's not ideal but it is safe.
  5. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Store Affliliates - Yes or No?

    Friend had no end of troubles with hers. Sim restarts and who knows what else could send them offline. She almost put a chunk of money into an affiliate for a store we were both fans of, but went with the free lower commission one to try it out. Creator left SL a few months later. :-( I was gutted and she was shocked that she'd come so close to losing all of that money. There were problems with other creators abandoning their affiliates too, but the vendors continued to take money and send the creators their cut. No delivery of course and if they didn't respond to IMs, she'd still have to refund the full price. She couldn't join hunts or use MM boards to bring people in. Vendors went offline alot. Too many other places selling the same items. (And that would include yourself if you find you need to set up more than one location to have a chance at recouping the fee.) Vendors offline.... Just wasn't worth the small amount of money she got. She had more fun working as a greeter/store model. Have you tried that?
  6. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Nano Meshes? How Do I Make Nano Meshes?

    Trix Easterwood wrote: OMG, oh my God, OMG That was sooooooooo it! Switching to Edit mode before adding the cube made all the difference Great catch, Aquila! Thank you so much for sticking with it for me. :matte-motes-big-grin: a Kudo to you, wish I could give more than one! I did for you, since I didn't have to make my own thread and giving Aquila and Drongle kudos is one of my new purposes in SL. ;-)
  7. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Do i need to make a UV and/texture before selling

    You're talking about full perm untextured mesh, yes? Then sure, there's a market. I always look for what's included though and usually give things a miss it's just a mesh without AO layer. The better the AO is and the better the layout of the UV islands, the more likely I'll buy something else from the creator. Especially the UV layout since buyers have no way of changing that without a dae file. I get grumpy if I have to spend ages and ages lining up pieces because someone used Smart UV Project and went with whatever that gave. A modeler's short cuts can mean heaps more work for texturers, especially if we want to offer it in more than one colour scheme. There's no reason why you have to be the person who does that kind of testing on your mesh though. If you can find someone to work with who's better at texturing and can give you feedback from that POV, you'll probably end up with better and more saleable mesh.
  8. I'm currently dressed in an adorable Hercules costume I got in a hunt, with a pirate hat and sometimes riding a surfboard, depending on my mood and what I have to do. If a friend or two is inworld, I'll say hello and maybe chat a bit depending on how busy they are. I'm learning how to make mesh, so the bulk of my SL time right now is either in the beta testing grid or scowling at software out of world. One of my shops is bright and colourful and mad, so I have a wander through every day to say hello. There's been a string of hunts that play to the serious side of my creating (which is rare), so I'm usually fretting about getting a gift item perfected for the next one and making some new things for my shops. I think that will quiet down in a month though. If you're curious, feel free to look me up inworld and use my picks to stop by my shops to see what I get up to.
  9. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Curved EDGES in Blender

    Drongle McMahon wrote: Sorry, no step-by-step pictures this time. I need sleep. Grins. Then I won't have to name my first child after you after all? ;-) I'm impressed by how much time the regulars here, but especially you and aquila with your multiple screen shots, have put into helping me and loads of others. Thank you most sincerely. I think I have something fairly reasonable now. Just need to clear my head enough to switch into GIMP mode for the texturing. I got really peeved the other day when I couldn't mouse scroll to resize. :-)
  10. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Curved EDGES in Blender

    Hello helpful people, I'm trying to sort of emboss a standing stone by extruding part of it. The thing is, I need curved edges. The picture below has Circles added from the Curves section of the Object menu to illustrate. Is there a way to add these curves as Edges to my main object? Join doesn't work because they're not meshes themselves. If not, any suggestions on how to other approaches? This is the only mesh detail so I can afford to make them very smooth - smoother than I can manage via a knife cut. I went looking for other tools but haven't come up with anything yet. The curved edges needed are 8 quarter circle pieces, so two complete circles' worth. The only way I've thought of where beveling might work is to extrude the rectangular bits, bevel from some of the y axis edges created and then de-extrude what's not needed. I'd prefer to only have to extrude (plus or minus) once though, so there's no worry about getting things back to the correct level, which is why I'm hoping there's a way to add in the curved edges before extruding. Thanks in advance.
  11. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Curved EDGES in Blender

    Thanks to both of you for your suggestions. I've used your second method, Drongle, because it was a great way of extending my skill set. Thanks for the clear instructions too. :-) So now I've gotten stuck on the UV map again. Most of it I've been able to Project from View into a nicely ordered UV, Ctrl A'd into scale and everything. I'm stuck on the inner edges of the extruded cross though. I thought to try it in four sections, one for each quadrant, but there's no way to get a head on view of course. Any suggestions?
  12. Hello kind people, I've made a mesh in the shape of this ancient relief. The reference image is included because it will become the basis for the texture. It's a box with slightly beveled corners and edges pulled up/in. Here's a wireframe in case it's helpful to see the edges and one attempt at seaming. In this case, there are three pieces - front, back and side(s). There's a wee seam across the width of the side(s) so it lays flat. It's tucked away at the bottom left. I'd like the UV to look like this, with the sides and back scaled smaller underneath. Because it's all about the detail on the front face, I'd like that to be as large as possible - and in the correct proportion. The back and sides can be significantly smaller, but it will be much easier to texture them neatly if they are in proportion to each other. What I get, regardless of how I seam it, is something like this. The long piece is the long but very narrow side(s) and the two squares are the front and back (which are separate islands, so it's not that I missed a seam). Blender already has the correct proportions on the Mesh side. Is there a way to get it to stop changing them on the UV or do I have to fix the mistakes it's imposing on me by hand? Any tips on doing that accurately? I'm using Blender 2.7. Many thanks.
  13. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Is there a way to keep UV islands in proportion to the mesh?

    Thanks to everyone who helped. It worked. :-) Even got it done the day before a hunt. Which was then cancelled. :-( Which means I can't invite you to saunter along to my shop at your convenience to pick up a copy as a thank you gift. Not that it would be difficult to arrange it by other means if you like. Here are a couple of pictures so you can see what you contributed to. Thanks again.
  14. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Is there a way to keep UV islands in proportion to the mesh?

    Girds my mouse and prepares to head back into battle with the Blender beast.
  15. Bitsy Buccaneer

    life imitates SL

    Last week I saw an oversized advert in the window of a high street UK lingerie chain. The model had equally oversized breasts and my first thought was that nowhere was safe from mesh boobs anymore.... :smileytongue:
  16. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Is there a way to keep UV islands in proportion to the mesh?

    Will Ctrl A keep things in place if I tweak them and need to unwrap again? I got far enough along to want to improve the shape after seeing it with the texture on the beta grid. The uploader doesn't like something I did on the new version so I have some more questions. 1) Do I have to unwrap before every export if I'm just testing the shape? 2) Will Ctrl A (or another hidden trick) help keep things in place so I don't need to redo the UV? 3) Any advice on workflow for testing in SL, making adjustments in Blender and testing again? 4) Any advice on getting less texture distortion on beveled sides? Is this something I just have to accept if I use the orthographic Object Project method of unwrapping? Ideally, the finished result would be a smooth continuous surface over the corners and around the curves.
  17. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Is there a way to keep UV islands in proportion to the mesh?

    With everything I've read and watched, how did I not find instructions on unwrapping sides individually? Bangs head on the stonework.
  18. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Is there a way to keep UV islands in proportion to the mesh?

    Thanks for replying. If I'm remembering correctly, Smart UV was the option which chopped it up (and disproportioned them) into even more equal sized squares. I tried playing with its settings, but couldn't find anything which, shall we say, dumbed it down. :-)
  19. Am hoping someone can share some tips besides 1) arrange the islands in the highest LOD sensibly and in light of the others and 2) eyeball it from a screen shot (of the highest LOD UV) for the rest. :-) TIA
  20. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Portrait pose?

    There might be something tucked away in Victorian and Steampunk, but probably in a shop rather than Marketplace. I don't know how much of that is still around these days. You can probably find a group or themed sim to make inquiries in. Don't be afraid of Qavimator. It actually makes sense and isn't difficult to use to make a basic pose. Then use the Beta test grid (accessed via a drop menu on the log in screen) to try it out and improve it till it's just what you want. Good luck.
  21. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Any advice on ways to line up UV islands for the different LODs?

    I started from scratch on the low LOD version. Just seemed more sensible rather than having to learn yet another set of skills and do them correctly umpteen times without messing up. I'm ready to just give up. All I want is a very basic 8 point cylinder of a certain height and diameter to match the nice wee pot. The learning curve on all of this is too much for me.
  22. I've been reading as much as I can, experimenting in Blender and the Beta Grid, lowering physics, adding simple shapes for low and lowest LOD, and my attempts are still coming in at higher LI than objects I've examined inworld. Mine have fewer tris too, so I'm at a loss. What I'm trying to make are some small, rounded bottles and jars. I've started with the simplest shape - a lid (no inside faces), straight sides and some beveling around the edges. Something like this: I'd love to make more complex shapes like others are doing too. Any tips much appreciated. TIA.
  23. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Any advice on ways to line up UV islands for the different LODs?

    K. I think I misinterpreted what the texture was doing, probably because of something related to my post in this thread (Message 8). This is so confusing. If only we had a streamlined version of Blender set up for SL.
  24. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Tips on making rounded or cylinder-based objects with low LI

    Am below 1 LI/download if I use the same basic 8 point 'cylinder' for Medium, Low and Lowest. I think it even looks alright enough - except that the fancy high one has a wee handle and the basic not quite cylinder doesn't (cause it seemed a detail that could be sacrificed without much loss). No matter how squat I make the basic Med-Low-Lowest version, it expands to the full height of the Highest, which is the pot + handle. Is there any way around this besides adding a cube for the handle on the Med-Low-Lowest version? I doubt many people will notice if the wee handle goes poof but the pot suddenly increasing in height is a bit shocking.
  25. Bitsy Buccaneer

    Tips on making rounded or cylinder-based objects with low LI

    Just when I thought I was maybe getting the hang of things..... :-) I have no idea what I've done, but it's now LI of 1.099 with a handle on top. Am considering being happy with that for the moment. Took me twelve hours to get up the courage to test my texture attempt inworld and it actually looks mostly alright. Hurrah. The thread you posted is a bit too advanced for me. Hopefully I'll be able to use the info some day soon. Thanks again.
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