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Herpes Melodie

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Everything posted by Herpes Melodie

  1. I still can't login on the beta grid. Any idea what the problem might be, anyone? I am using client: Second_Life_2-7-6-234701_ProjectViewer-Mesh_Setup
  2. Tried it, but no success. Re-installed my mesh client as well, but this doesn't help neither. Main grid works fine though, so its not my pc, I guess. Internet works fine as well, otherwise I wouldn't be posting this. What happens is that I hit the log in button, the loading screen appears and it gets stuck when the "Logging in" text appears. It won't load, at all. My screen is not frozen neither because I can still see the loading bar itself flickering brighter/darker. Now I know that I often made silly jokes about Linden folks, but I didn't mean it!
  3. I don't know to what grid I am logging in, nor would I know how to change to what grid I am trying to log into. This morning I was able to log into the beta grid. I closed SL, grabbed some coffee, wanted to check my mesh in-world and could not log in anymore.
  4. Guy, Thank you you very much. I wasn't aware of all this, nor did I knew that programs such as Zbrush have problems with n-gons. This solved my the problem I had with Zbrush as well. About the wall, I will give it a shot tomorrow, its 4:40 am here at the moment and the maya logo is burned into my eyes. It would appear to me that is is easy cake as how you desribe it, but one cannot be sure enough. If I bump against a problem, I will reply here. Thanks again!
  5. Lol, interesting topic, but where to start. I haven't been doing SL photography since 2007 so I can't get you specific SL-related photography tips. I believe, though I am not 100% sure, Torley Linden had a page on wiki about SL photography? Might check that out. What I wrote below is the workflow I use when I do photo manipulations and photography in rl. By no means you must- follow this. I don't know how familiar you are with Photoshop, but if you are new to it I would suggest you follow some tuts - especially those that are not SL related. Why? Because they learn you to take different approaches for specific situations. Google for PSDtuts+, abduzeedo, PSD vault, Photoshop Lady, Spoongraphics. They offer high quality tutorials and web roundups - all graphic design related. Everything you just mentioned such as curves, hue, etc, are mainly used to 'correct' your photos. In SL, when one takes a snapshot, with proper light settings, your photo already has a nice contrast, color values and all the other boring stuff. I would say that it all depends on what you are trying to achieve. There is no written set of rules one needs to follow in order to get 'good' photo. What you can do, however, is following some guide lines. What are you trying to achieve? Is there a certain mood you are trying to create? Does the photo needs to look realisic, almost as if its a real life picture with lots of photo realistic material in it? Will it be black and white, or in full color. There are so much things you can ask yourself before you would start with the picture. Try to get a clear idea of what you want before you actually start to work with the picture. After you know what you want, start making preparations. Things you should know how to use: 1) pen tool. Whenever you want to extract a certain element out of another picture, use the pen tool. You should love your pen tool. Hug your pen tool. And care for your pen tool - he will be one of your biggest friends. 2) Liquify. Always, always, always liquify your models, objects or whatever that looks messed up. When you make a snapshot from a model or an object from a certain distance, it will appear with ugly edges. Use the liquify tool to get rid of the edges. 3) Liquify, again! Change body proportions by using the liquify tool. Breasts, a nose, cheeks, whatever - make your model look good. Also, try to give your model a certain expression when the situation asks for it, and while doing this know that the eyes of your model will most likely be one of the first, if not the first, thing somebody else will look at when looking at your picture. An expression gives so much more value to any photo. 4) Clone and healing brush. Because everyone looks pretty in SL, you probably won't be using the clone tool that much. 5) Blending your model into a background - light and shadows. Probably one of the hardest things to do is blending your model into a background. The pic you posted is made in SL which makes it easier. But, on this picture for example, you made a very bright background. This is good, because your model pops out and the model draws all the attention. But you also could draw a little bit of white on the bottom of the model as well to create a smooth transation and to make it all together a bit more softer. Same gooes for the edges of the model, the parts such as the shoulder and sides of the head, stomach, etc. Again, creating proper lighting in a photo is not something that is considered easy. Experment, use much layers and you will get there eventually. Another thing you could try is paitning/brushing your own shadows and highlights. To give you an idea of what i mean, on the picture you posted you can tell that the light source comes from somewhere in front of her. Not sure if this is actually true (could be standard sl lighting or baked in lighting in the skin itself, but I doubt it) but if you look at her stomach you see the light coming from a source in front of her. With this in mind - knowing where the light source is - you could paint some extra stadows to give the photo more depth. The right side of her chest, for example, and the stomach, could be darkened. Same goes for the hat and arm straps. The big black strap in the middle, for example, appears somewhat flat. Try to use the dodge tool on the middle parts of the straps. Start with a big brush and slowly build your way up with smaller brushes until you get a nice highlight which causes more depth. 6) Colors! Try to use certain colors to capture an atmosphere. For example, blue is for cold, yellow is warm, green stands for nature, etc. A quick and easy way to give your photo a nice effect is smart use of gradient maps. Assuming you are familiar with gradient maps, no need to explain this. If you would like to know more about what i mean, shout here and I will continue about this. 7) Correction tools. Curves, levels and contrast itself, are often used to change the contrast of a picture. But keep in mind that SL snapshots are usually with a nice contrast already. You also can use the curves and lvls tools to increase/deacrease your rgb/cmyk values. This all together is basic image editing but should not be over looked. As said above, Lightroom can help you as well. Personally - but this is my opinion - I am not a big fan of Lightroom, mainly because I just like to use Photoshop for everything I do. Even though I could be wrong, Photoshop makes it feel to me as if I have much more control. But its a fact that Lightroom is used by almost every photographer I know irl, so its a matter of taste and with what you are confortable. You definatly should give it a shot if you have the chance and see how comfortable you are with it. I hope this helped and do give a shout if you need more tips and/or have questions about something in specific.
  6. I find you truly amazing for posting a link toward the manual. How come I didn't thought of that - silly me! Unfortunatly this is not what I was talking about, nor is it covered in the manual, or I am getting blind. I know that squares are the way to go whenever possible. But I would like to know why - or better said 'when' - my model will be in troubles when it contains faces with +4 edges. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. For example, if I want to bevel a few specifc edges and leave other edges for what they are, I might end up with tiny faces that contain +4 edges. Because I dont want to save and upload to check the mesh in SL every time I do something, I would rather know -when- I am doing something that will cause a problem and -when- I am doing something that wont lead to problems. I hope this explains what I meant. Also, though this is not a question related to what I described above, I was wondering what the easiest way is to to extract a door shape out of a square box,with an opening on both sides, in Maya. If I do it with the booleans tool (creating a door shape with a box, stick it into a wall, and hit Booleans difference) I end up with many edges on the wall and the normals are not corrent. And if I create a plane. add some resolution with edgeloops and cut out a doorshape with the split polygon tool, I have a plane with a nice doorshape. I figured I should extrude the plane to at least one time to give it faces on the sides. But when I upload it, I get the same result in SL. Do enlighten  me, please.
  7. Hah, heya Gaia, Even though I betrayed the Blender comunity by running to the Maya side, I found this tut/explanation very helpful, especially the part when you upload stuff to SL. I wasnt even aware of the LOD optimalisation. I tested it right away and managed to get my 140 prim model down to 20, which is very neat
  8. Heya everyone, I was wondering if it would hurt if my model contained faces with 4+ edges. As a general rule of thumb I learned that it is best to use faces with 4 edges, at all times. However, I oftend end up with +4 edges on a face after using the booleans tool in Maya. Should I try to make a proper topology by using tools such as the split polygon tool and make every face with 4 edges, or could I get away with it?
  9. Heya, I figured it could be done with Photoshop, but thought it required a lot of tedious work to extract the shadow properly. That is why I was looking for a way to do it in Maya. But now that you mention it, I forgot that alpha channels work with black and white as well so it should be done within a few clicks - thanks!
  10. Heya everyone, I was wondering how, and if it even is possible, to bake shadows with a transparant background to create textures such as ground shadows. I would guess you need to start with a transparant material on a plane?
  11. Heya Gaia, No I didn't. Just did it and it works. If I would create more detailed stuff, should I make a physics-only model? Or will the regular model be alright for physics. Also, does the physics model effects the prim count? And .. last question I promise ... if I would create a seperate physics model, I can work with very basic and solid shapes and open gaps where I want parts closed and open? Thanks for the quick reply, by the way - its a record! edit: must be rush our, 3 more replies while I wrote this reply haha. Big thanks of course to everyone who is willing to help
  12. Hello everyone, I am almost certain I am doing something wrong here and would like to know what it is :) Below you will see a screenshot of my model in Maya. I can't walk through the open part of my model. I checked the Phyics box and uploaded the same model as I used in the other tabs. No materials or fancy stuff in Maya, just a simple model. What am I doing wrong?
  13. Heya, Not sure how it goes with the other versions of Maya (I got v2011) but when you open it for the first time a menu pops up with a link to useful tutorials. These can be found here: http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?linkID=9242256&id=9502844&siteID=123112 It will take a while to go through it all but I strongly recommend you to read, and actually do, it all to learn the basics. It is not SL-related but it will give you a good understanding of the basics and a glimp of what's possible. G'luck and prepare to be amazed every time you learn a little bit more about Maya And don't be scared by "Maya has such a high learning curve!" If you use tuts to cover each part of the program and spent a decent amount of time in it, you will notice that figuring out Maya is not that hard. Finding out the right approach to do whatever it is you want, can be confusing just because there are 12958812957 ways of doing it most likely.
  14. Heya Hibit, I dont have the file anymore but this could be it. I didn't checked it though. And to be honest, because this happened a few times, even with simple meshes such as boxes without any modification whatsoever but only with extra resolution to get close to the 8mb limit, I highly doubt this would be it. But again, I didn't checked it. But I don't know what else it could be.
  15. Due to my RL profession I know truly professional 3D modellers. I use to hire them occasionally. These people have a good laugh on Linden Lab and their hopeless attempt, believe me. Don´t think that you´ll meet anyone of them for professional reasons on the meshed up grid.
  16. Hello everyone I was wondering which program you use to sculpt hard surfaces. I'm using Mudbox at the moment, but each time when I import a model from Maya to Mudbox it smooths out the hard edges. This can be fixed in Maya by adding more resolution or in Mudbox by hardening the edges I guess, but if you add another subdivision lvl everything is smooth again and it drives me mad D: So what about Zbrush? I have zero experience with it but was reading Zbrush can sculpt hard surfaces. Can somebody confirm this? Also, does it smooth out your models or does it appear in Zbrush the same as how it does in Maya? Also, I was wondering if I did my shading process right. In order to prevent that my textures look flat I Batch Bake (mental ray) light maps. Because my model textures are usually 1024 x 1024 and light maps 512 x 512 (saves render time) I throw everything in Photoshop and finish it there. And lastly, how to create, or imitate, the effect of very detailed surfaces in SL. We cant use normal maps to do this, but we cant make the file size to big neither. I tried desaturating my normal maps then putting them on over my other textures in photoshop as some sort of improvised 2d displacement map but this doesn't always gives the desired effect. How do you tackle this? Thanks in advance,
  17. Oh that sucks lol, I deleted the file and started over because I thought it was me who was doing something wrong. Also, yesterday I had a problem with my model not showing up correctly. One and a half side of my model seemed to be transparant. I created a box in maya, added some resolution and imported into Mudbox. There I added some more resolution to the point it was sculptable. I loaded it back in Maya, exported it as a .dae (5.5mb) and uploaded it into SL. In the preview window it showed up corrently. But the sides where I sculpted some stuff were completely transparant. Not just the faces where I did some sculpting, but the whole side. Unfortunatly I deleted these files too. Next time when I experience issues, I'll keep my files - I promise!
  18. Hello everyone, I was wondering if its normal that my mesh beta client tends to crash when I try to import .dae files somewhere around 7.5 nearly 8 mb. I was reading on Wiki the size limit is 8 mb - assuming you follow the other restrictions - which works sometimes and sometimes not. What happens is: 1) I upload a model, all lvl buttons are green except for high, it loads and loads, sl freezes and then a) I crash b) it turns green and I can upload it. Or I get this error: xxxxx failed to upload: unable to upload asset. NewagentInventory_ServerError. See the log file for details. All of this above happened while I tried to upload one and the same .dae file. Not all at once of course, but sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, sometimes it crashes, etc. I tried re-installing the mesh client but that didn't change anything. So is it supposed to be like that - it is a beta client after all - or am I the only one who experiences such issues?
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