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LisaMarie McWinnie

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Everything posted by LisaMarie McWinnie

  1. Thanks for the commentsgirls. Though what I have in mind is more of a planter box, and in marketplace all of them come with something in it. I like the idea of including a generic tree to it, and give the option to use your own, but I don't know if its worth the extra work.
  2. Im only using 'View 1' on the Subsurf modifier, what can I do?
  3. I 've been using the preselction option when exporting for some time now, I always selecet the SL Rigged Mesh option for clothes, and its the first time In months I have this issue.
  4. Im using Blender 2.68a, and after a lot of uploads without any problem, tonight I crashed when selecting skin weight. In the menu, ti says Triangles: 27.280, Vertices 22.224. I am using the last official viewer, windows 7.
  5. I've been wondering about making a vase, and sell it on Marketplace. I started to think if selling just the vase, without a simple tree wiht it, would be fair. So that s my doubt., would it be ok of me to sell a vase without any plants/trees?
  6. Hey there, I found this two tutorials, and I think they can help you: http://wiki.blender.org/index.php/Doc:2.6/Manual/Render/Post_Process/Edges http://www.moddb.com/groups/blenderheads/tutorials/fake-cell-shading1 I found some tutorials on how to archive the cell shading effect with cycles, but then you can't bake the results on a texture AFAIK, so I didn't post them here. I hope these help!
  7. Oh now I have a new questions: Can I put the arms of the SL Avatar down on Blender, like in my picture, model the mesh with the avatar like that, and make it rigged? I tried this before but it didn't worked well.
  8. Thank you all for the replies! I have used normal maps in some of my last creations, and I like it alot, though for now I don't want to rely so much in it. Same thing with the specularity, is not as strong in world as i would like. I agree Madelle, that is probably one of the things that is bugging me right now, it is looking thick while I want it to appear like a thin delicate fabric. And Dree, I always model my clothes with the arms open, in the neutral pose, for this picture I put the arms down.
  9. Hello! So I've been working on an early 1900's dress, and I used for inspirations photos and drawings of dresses with the then-fashionable pidgeon bodice. I am still using the mirror modifier, but still I am afraid the bodice still looks too mirroed, not natural. I accidentaly ended up making it looking more like pleates than what I actually wanted, but I asked someone IRL and they said it looks natural. These are some of the inspirations: http://www.kci.or.jp/archives/digital_archives/photos/113_xl_AC10092.jpg http://www.kci.or.jp/archives/digital_archives/photos/105_xl_AC03638.jpg http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lzepvx1nd11rnhcayo1_500.jpg And now, the mesh: I think it is not detailed enough as I would like, and I want more smaller detail after the bigger ones ends, similar to the first image. The sleeves are pretty much the same, I can't make them look natural! Thank you in advance!
  10. You could try selecting the lace area, and then with the top selected delete that part of the shirt (the one behind the lace strip). I hope this made sense, somehow I got trouble to put it in words lol. But then, the transparent part under the lace will not match the alpha layer the creator must have included with the top.
  11. Thanks again! I'll definately try this on a simpler mesh before, so I can get familiarized with this process better. Do you really need two UV maps and those copies of the meshes though? Can't I just use one mesh and one UV map? I got a little confused with all the UVs and different layers.
  12. Thank you, that is a great video! (my internet came back to normal too lol), though I was confused at some parts. So I need to set up the UV map, create a material, then create two textures, one with the pattern/color, another with the bump/structure, set up the lighting and bake full render?
  13. Thanks for the reply! My internet is very bad right now, so youtube is not even loading. But as far as I could see, that tutorial is for modeling only no? I made the dress so far without it, and while I am satisfied with the skirt, I think the top is not looking very natural. I downloaded an photoshop plugin for normals, but the problem is with the little details. I don't think it would be worth to sculpt it, since its so small, but then I don't know how to draw, and I can't just put a white blank texture on the dress. I will definately watch the tutorial, since its something I've been wanting to learn better, and it will certainly be useful, but now I am still kinda lost about the texture for this one.
  14. Hello! So on my latest project, I would like to use a texture like this, of a chiffron fabric, on the main part of the dress: http://texturetaddka.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Chiffon_fabric_texture_6.jpg I don't know how to use the blender materials, and I don't know if I can make those details with it, can someone help me please? Thank you in advance!
  15. Maybe its the alpha blending? Edit your mesh on Second life, go to 'Textures' tab and change the Alpha mode to 'None'. Hope it helps!
  16. From what I understood, you can do that very easily. Just open the template that comes with it, as seen in the second picture of the shirt. Open it on Photoshop, and just write your name with the Type Tool. Place it where you want, and save it. After that, just upload the texture to SL, and put it on the mesh t-shirt
  17. I always check how the texture looks on Blender first, so I guess that willnot be a problem. I actualy had to change the width on the UV, it was much worst before. So I guess I'll have to continue doing it? I saw a product on marketplace, a full-perm, and the image of the uv looked so neat and simple. But then, this skirt gets wider at the bottom, so I think a rectangular UV will not work right? This one is not working either, you can see how the texture gets distorced vertically too. Ugh this uv is driving me mad!
  18. I am using Blender 2.68, and I made a new UV for this skirt (its not the same skirt either, its a new one), the one shown in the second picture (I edited it so you can see it better, it was a bit too small).
  19. So I recently made a custom dress that had a round skirt, and for that I saved the uv in a square shape. I didnt noticed any distortion, and was pretty happy with the results (I had never done that for skirts uv's) even though it was a pain to make every line perfectly straight. I tried it with a project (this one up here) I've been working on lately, but the results were not that good. At first, with a rectangular-shaped uv, made the pattern (I tested with a repeated pattern) looks big on the bottom and small near the top. I came witht he "brilliant' idea of then making it in a irregular cone shape. At first it seemed it worked, but I noticed later that the texture is also distorced horizontaly, with the front having it very wide, and the back very small. Up here is how the uv for the skirt looks, and how the skirts looks with textures. I make historical dresses so I am always working with long skirts, and finally learning how to make UVs that will not distorce the textures would be great. Thank you in advance!
  20. Ah I see, so I reduce the weight on the shoulder bone and add more to the neck bone? But what about the shoulder size on SL? if I let too little weight on the shoulder the collar gets buried under the shirt.
  21. Thanks for the reply! I usually have this problem when rigging, the neckline usually moves too much. But if I add just a little of weight to the collar on those bones shwoed on the pictures, when I load it on SL, the collar gets burried because of the shoulder size. To rig, I select the mesh and the armature and click 'automatic bone weights', and then proceed to edit the rigging with weight paint. Is there a different way to do it? I could see how less movement on the shoulders could make my life much easier lol, not only on necklines but also on seam details, like in suits.
  22. So, pretty much the title lol I am making a 1860's dress, and everything is fine except for the dress' collar. I uploaded a lot of models, and I can't seem to make a decent rigging to it. In general it is not look very nice, but then there is a big asymetry, in the left side the collar drowns inside the dress. In the back, is the contrary. I would like to correct this, and also make it look better in overall. Thank you in advance!
  23. I use Blender 2.68, and I have some problems with rigging buttons for my dress. I notice in some shirts in world, that the buttons and pockets moves perfectly along with the mesh, but I can't get that effect. I know this pose is extreme, but I think it protraits my worry. I've tried to join the meshes before rigging, but its worst because then I have to manually add weight to the buttons. Thank you in advance!
  24. I use Blender 2.68, and I have some problems with rigging buttons for my dress. I notice in some shirts in world, that the buttons and pockets moves perfectly along with the mesh, but I can't get that effect. I know this pose is extreme, but I think it protraits my worry. I've tried to join the meshes before rigging, but its worst because then I have to manually add weight to the buttons. Thank you in advance!
  25. Hello! So, I've been making mesh for a while, and while I think theres is a lot of space for improvment on building, what I really need now is to be able to drawn decent textures for my creations, so i can add more details to them. My drawing skills are very poor, but I would love to learn how to draw silk for example ,not those photoshop random folds tutorial, but an actually nice silk texture. I make mostly 18th and 19th century dresses, and most of them were inspired by IRL silk dresses. I would like not only to draw nice folding effects, but also just a plain silk, that looks so simple yet I can't make it. Thank you in advance!
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