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LouiseDeBlois

Quick question of CPU Temp when running SL

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Hi all, just a quick question on my CPU temp when running SL when I can get it working on good days while I wait for my replacement parts as mentioned in a previous post.

I have just done a deep PC clean, using my air compressor wondering if it was the CPU's fan which was blocked with dust. 

I am running 4 fans, one on the back, 2 on the front, and one on the side. The 2 front and side are intakes, the back is the rear exhaust fan.

My Current cooler is an "Intel Original E97378 LGA1155/1156 Aluminum/Copper CPU Heatsink, P/N # E97378 "

when running secondlife, i hit temperatures of 46C When in my skybox, but in sims with more than a simplistic skybox I hit around 64C (With shadows on, I hit 70C)

 

I hit these temperatures before cleaning along with hitting the same after cleaning, I took off the CPU fan when cleaning and made sure it was correctly installed.

The Thermal paste was very dry, so, would it be a safe bet that i need to replace the thermal past, or, is the fan for the CPU not a good fan in general.

 

On a side note, I did stress tests with Prime 95 and running ARK *the game*

 

Results as as such:

 

Prime 95, 8 agents running, I hit 75-85 C on the CPU with all fans running

ARK on high, the CPU hits a 70C  with all fans running, 80C with the intake fans on the front off.

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I cannot close my PC or it would overheat after I upgraded it... depending on your PCs casing design it could benefit or suffer from closing the case... try both. 

"Intel" pretty much sounds like a stock cooler, which usually are not intended for superhigh performance stuff. A good one is not as expensive as you might think.

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Unless I'm missing it, I'm not seeing what your video card actually is.  There are some Nvidea cards where 75c is not an unusual temperature for them.

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Seems solution could be...   take out wallet and dump all cash out of it!!!

have you heard of ‘water-cooling’!?  ?

Edited by AviNews

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Wait a second ... you removed the cooler and checked the dried thermal paste and then you put the cooler straight back onto the CPU, without new paste or at least removing the old stuff?
That's not good.  If you don't have any fresh paste, at least remove the old leftovers or you'll have an even worse heat transition. 
Cleaning alcohol will do for the removal.

Prime95 simulates a very extreme scenario, including temperatures you rarely see in normal use. Running ARK with the boxed cooler, 70° is, well, to be expected. Your CPU (i7-4790) belongs to the "Heatwell" generation which runs hot pretty easily.

You can try if your fan setup is more effective without the side one running. That one may actually interrupt the airflow from the front intake to the back outlet. On the other hand, it may be blowing straight onto the boxed cooler ... try and see.

Best solution: get a custom cooler for your CPU. They usually come with a little bag of thermal paste, so you don't need to buy an extra product.
Either you check the stats of your case at the manufacturer's website or you'll measure it yourself ... you need the space from the side panel to the mainboard, minus an extra 1cm or so for the socket mounting.

For example, this one for £26, 150mm high ... good budget solution.

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Really depends on what processor you have, for the majority of non-k, locked intel processors the stock cooler will be fine, its designed to handle the 65/84w TDP of the processor.

70c isnt bad, its not gonna harm it, its just not ideal. You probably wont see thermal throttling until you hit 90-95c, and you wont see that with a load like SL. Your synthetic testing got close however.

Replace the thermal paste if it was dry, doesnt hurt.

18 hours ago, Lillith Hapmouche said:

Wait a second ... you removed the cooler and checked the dried thermal paste and then you put the cooler straight back onto the CPU, without new paste or at least removing the old stuff?

If you did this for the love of god do not run that machine hard until you replace the thermal paste, if it maxes out and cant dissipate heat, it will heat up extremely fast and will thermal shutdown and possibly cause damage to the motherboard. The CPU can take the heat, the socket cannot.

As someone who has built a lot of PC's, if youre going to upgrade cooling on what lillith says is a 4790 (im not sure, but it applies to just about anything), if you want to go with air cooling look into a Cryorig H7 (C7 if you have a slim case) or Hyper 212 Evo, BeQuiet Pure Rock line, Cooler Master T2 if you want a small tower, or a Noctua NH-D15 if you want to go all out (though on a locked processor, its absolute overkill).

Water cooling may be an option since the higher end haswell processors are pretty hot, even the non-k locked versions, any regular all in one cooler would be a decent option, the Corsair H60i is really popular and fits in anything with a 120mm fan mount for the radiator.

Dont use the ceramic stock paste that the coolers come with, always go with better quality thermal compound, Arctic Silver 5 or MX-4, Grizzly Kryonaut is also fantastic stuff. Liquid metal is a meme and destroys aluminum coolers.

 

tl;dr, your temps are probably fine, replace thermal paste since it was dry, stock cooler should be OK but a cooler upgrade would be a good option

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Interesting thread.  Excuse  me if I hijack it a bit.

How long does thermal paste last?   I replaced my screamin' stock AMD FX-8350 cooler with a Deep Cool Captain 250 integrated water cooler, and replaced the paste with that supplied.  I'm wondering if I should have policy of replacing the paste after X years, say 3 or so?

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1 hour ago, anna2358 said:

Interesting thread.  Excuse  me if I hijack it a bit.

How long does thermal paste last?   I replaced my screamin' stock AMD FX-8350 cooler with a Deep Cool Captain 250 integrated water cooler, and replaced the paste with that supplied.  I'm wondering if I should have policy of replacing the paste after X years, say 3 or so?

Usually it won't cease functioning after it dries up, some people said "maybe after 10 years" some say 5 years. My old boss had the common sense approach "whenever you take off the cooler block" which some people even don't (you should definately do that though).

 

PS: you will surely find someone telling you "every year" too.  Maybe that even makes sense if you overclock your CPU or really push your GPU/CPU to their limits on a daily base... as everything in live it might be a matter of perspective.

Edited by Fionalein
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When to replace it ... well, when you notice a sudden increase in temperatures, it's worth a thought at the very least.

Plus, don't overdo it. You actually need very little paste, roughly about two rice corns or perhaps even one and a half corn. 
Put that bit on the CPU heatspreader, either leaving the drops or using an old credit card or something to evenly spread it out on the surface. Or put the CPU cooler's heatsink on top of the drops, press it down and carefully move it around a bit, to spread the paste between the two surface.

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On 5/9/2018 at 2:34 AM, anna2358 said:

Interesting thread.  Excuse  me if I hijack it a bit.

How long does thermal paste last?   I replaced my screamin' stock AMD FX-8350 cooler with a Deep Cool Captain 250 integrated water cooler, and replaced the paste with that supplied.  I'm wondering if I should have policy of replacing the paste after X years, say 3 or so?

If you never touch it, it can last decades. Many suggest replacing it every so often however, and whatever you consider "every so often" to be.

Personally, ive got systems that have never had their coolers removed in the last 20 years and they still have the same temps. Ive got others that get new thermal paste every few months or so when i take them apart for fun and cleaning.

Unless you start seeing temperature problems with a clean cooler, dont bother.

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It depends of the brand, too. In theory you don't need much thermal paste at all since it's supposed to merely fill minuscule cracks and flaws in the two thermal interfaces.

In general there is no need to redo it unless you actually see a temperature problem, many non serviceable electronic parts use thermal pastes and glues and it typically last longer than the device.

 

Ironically, some modding (expensive) brands do have a tendency to dry up and lose their properties over time.

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i turnd up the settings on my cfan speed on my card seemed to stop it, there may be a option to do that in your graphics card options, i always run with the case open too,

 

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On 5/31/2018 at 1:20 PM, binder59 said:

i turnd up the settings on my cfan speed on my card seemed to stop it, there may be a option to do that in your graphics card options, i always run with the case open too,

 

Don't run a case open for temperature problems, add and change around fans to create airflow.

need an intake and an exhaust, more for hotter parts, you want air to exclusively flow in one end and out another, optimally exhaust should be at the back and top and intakes should be at the front and bottom

having the case open entirely negates airflow since the air you intake just blows out the side instead

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As I recall, the point of the thermal paste is to compensate for imperfect thermal contact between the cooler and the top of the chip-casing.. Neither are flat (I once saw an optical flat. Wow!). The past isn't really there to be a good conductor, it just increases the area for heat flow.

A good cooler rig can be pretty cheap, though the room in the case will matter. I had an Arctic cooler running for years on my old computer, my current machine is stock Dell. Fans can wear out, and I would look at how your motherboard controls fan speed. Some have a BIOS that can be run at continuous max speed.

I would say the big mistake is not replacing the thermal paste. I give an example here, from eBay in the UK. The thermal conductivity quoted is typical, but you can get better without a huge bill. Arctic is a good brand, but some sellers don't quote hard numbers.

Example of thermal paste sold in the UK

Since you only have a thin film of thermal paste,  there's not really going to be very much temperature difference, and a 2:1 difference in conductivity is going to mean fractions of a degree. Spend a little more on branded paste, and you may get something that lasts longer, but I worry more about making a very thin film. You not spreading jam on a sandwich, marmite is maybe a better analogy.

 

Airflow in the case is a tangled issue. Some cases have the PSU at the bottom, essentially with its own cooling air. It's usual to have a front intake fan set low, exhaust fan high, and the video card has its fan/heatsink venting at the back. The sort of commonplace CPU rig that works well with a side vent sounds similar to what you have. Higher-grade coolers have a huge heatsink and blow from the side. Best rig it all front to back. Keep your cabling tidy, that can be the killer.

You're not getting excessive temperatures, but Second Life viewers do do a lot of work and it comes at the high end of what people see.

 

 

 

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