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How does your avatar look today ?


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This is my current avatar. She's an Usagi Child ^.^  

i was wondering around a SIM one day, and some dude private messaged me tellin' me he loved my look... he was very polite and kind, asked me to stop running and turn my AO off for him, so i did... the

I find it very entertaining to switch my looks according to my mood. I woke up one day and decided to change my shape into a more petite and "model" look.   Before (with Genesis Lab bento head):

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5 hours ago, Scylla Rhiadra said:

This is kind of an experiment in shooting in portrait rather than landscape. I hadn't realized that you could shoot at a vertical resolution larger than the screen size, and preset the aspect ration, by unticking the box that constrains these. Thanks to @Orwar for pointing this out!

(And, once again, Black Dragon almost eliminates the need to do any post-processing. Virtually all that was needed here was resizing.)

Street-Light-Blank.thumb.png.6f2d7b961c4cab4e4bdc4017b1b26a36.png

 

   Among the many features of Black Dragon that are very useful for photography is the pose tool. You can be using any pose you own, and tweak things to your liking. Want more curve in the fingers holding an object? You can do that. Should one arm be more akimbo? You can do that. If you're wearing a bento mesh head, even your facial expression(s) can be adjusted more to your own liking.

Edited by Ivanova Shostakovich
as this feature may not work with non-static animations.
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13 hours ago, Rhonda Huntress said:

Tonight's avatar looks like ....

cleric_by_joshcalloway-d7za0ya.jpg

It's DnD night.

 

 

I'm such a nerd ....

 

Not the only one Rhonda..

PS: I've made it through all of Campaign One. Doing the one-shots before I tackle Campaign Two.

Edited by Roxy Couturier
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Can't Relate

The name of the outfit is literally the name of the title, but it has more meaning than that. I truly can't relate to a lot of people in SL or RL, especially in the lifestyle I am in. I feel like the black sheep of the lifestyle. I hope you all enjoy  ♥

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3 hours ago, Ivanova Shostakovich said:

Among the many features of Black Dragon that are very useful for photography is the pose tool. You can be using any pose you own, and tweak things to your liking. Want more curve in the fingers holding an object? You can do that. Should one arm be more akimbo? You can do that. If you're wearing a bento mesh head, even your facial expression(s) can be adjusted more to your own liking.

I never could get BD's pose tools to do what I want :(

But that's OK since I have tools for that already.

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39 minutes ago, Rhonda Huntress said:

I never could get BD's pose tools to do what I want :(

But that's OK since I have tools for that already.

The poser is actually really complicated: it has so many possible parameters for every bone. It works really well, for minor adjustments, but it's actually a bit of a struggle (for me, anyway) doing anything very complex with it. I thought it might do away with my need for the Lelutka Axis HUD, for instance -- uh huh. The HUD is much easier to use.

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Uhmmm
while I was playing with the sand in a peaceful place I've take this photo.
I don't' understand how works the dof... 
the first picture is a screenshot of what I see and the second one is what I get when I shoot.
Any suggestion?

Ty 😊

beach-a.jpg

beach-b.jpg

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1 hour ago, manoji Yachvili said:

Uhmmm
while I was playing with the sand in a peaceful place I've take this photo.
I don't' understand how works the dof... 
the first picture is a screenshot of what I see and the second one is what I get when I shoot.
Any suggestion?

Ty 😊

The bigger you shoot, 2000 x 2000 and bigger, you lose DOF details. Firestorm is worse for this than BD, I think.

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1 hour ago, manoji Yachvili said:

don't' understand how works the dof... 
the first picture is a screenshot of what I see and the second one is what I get when I shoot.
Any suggestion?

If you are taking photos at a high resolution (I use 5000) and plan to resize them (I make mine between 1999 and 2400 usually) you need to OVERCOMPENSATE in the viewer.  If you want to have one particular part sharp and the background (or foreground) blurred then you need to touch the part that you want clear with your cursor. There are various settings in the FS DOF tab some do much and some do nothing (for me anyway).  This picture was taken with a gold and white Christmas tree in the background so you can see that you can REALLY blur the background if you want. 

 

image.png.06effe805ea43cbd2d1cbdcff4da21c9.png

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2 hours ago, Scylla Rhiadra said:

The poser is actually really complicated: it has so many possible parameters for every bone. It works really well, for minor adjustments, but it's actually a bit of a struggle (for me, anyway) doing anything very complex with it. I thought it might do away with my need for the Lelutka Axis HUD, for instance -- uh huh. The HUD is much easier to use.

Huh. Once I figured out how to enact it, I find the poser to be one of the more intuitive features in the viewer. Go figger.

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4 minutes ago, Seicher Rae said:

Huh. Once I figured out how to enact it, I find the poser to be one of the more intuitive features in the viewer. Go figger.

It probably relates to the first time I tried to adjust the direction of my sight using the poser, and I somehow ended up with my left eyeball flying about 3 cms outside of my skull.

I'm sure I'll get over it.

Eventually.

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1 hour ago, Eva Knoller said:

@manoji Yachvili Try increasing your DoF levels to extremely blurry, then try the shot again. If your pic resolution is higher than screen size, the DoF tends to not show the way you see in viewer. 

 

56 minutes ago, Seicher Rae said:

The bigger you shoot, 2000 x 2000 and bigger, you lose DOF details. Firestorm is worse for this than BD, I think.

 

46 minutes ago, Chic Aeon said:

If you are taking photos at a high resolution (I use 5000) and plan to resize them (I make mine between 1999 and 2400 usually) you need to OVERCOMPENSATE in the viewer.  If you want to have one particular part sharp and the background (or foreground) blurred then you need to touch the part that you want clear with your cursor. There are various settings in the FS DOF tab some do much and some do nothing (for me anyway).  This picture was taken with a gold and white Christmas tree in the background so you can see that you can REALLY blur the background if you want. 

 

image.png.06effe805ea43cbd2d1cbdcff4da21c9.png

thanks a lot for all the suggestions.
Unfortunately i cannot have resolution more than 1300x1300 because each time I try to get higher I see lines on the shot.  
I take square photos directly in world and sometimes I'm not able to use properly the arrows for moving the camera, for sure are both a problem of old imac and low wifi connection, so is a dream take photos with the measure of the screen size.
May be is also because I use only sl wl.

Anyway I'll try next time

 

@Chic Aeon wonderful shot 😍

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3 hours ago, manoji Yachvili said:

Uhmmm
while I was playing with the sand in a peaceful place I've take this photo.
I don't' understand how works the dof... 
the first picture is a screenshot of what I see and the second one is what I get when I shoot.
Any suggestion?

Ty 😊

beach-a.jpg

beach-b.jpg

This is a two stage problem... There is taking the picture and then how you post-production adjust (Photoshop, etc). You can find tutorials on how to use DoF in the viewer. Some hint at the problem of what happens when you take the image into Photoshop (PS). It is a bit harder to find tutorials that show how to preserve the 'blur' in post production. We usually do the lense focus effect in PS and just put in however much blur we want, create versus preserve. PS has the tools to use the viewer's Depth Map (saved from the Snapshot Panel) to control image blur based on distance from camera. 

Basically if you take 3,000px wide image and then post or otherwise upload it as 1024px wide... you have shrunk the image and reduced the size and DOF EFFECT by 66%. So, if you want the DOF to look the same... you have to increase the DOF EFFECT in the original shot by 300%. If you play with resizing images that have backgrounds blurred you'll see the problem. This is a problem that is only solved by thinking ahead.

All of this will start to appear in your images if you adjust DoF for what you see on the screen (1920 wide) and snap the image at 3,000px wide. The viewer is resizing the image as it saves the image. You then look at the image (3000px) on screen (1920) which is down-sizing the image and DOF. The DOF is still there but you changed the way YOU SEE IT. You have to anticipate what you will do with the image and what size it will be when you or others look at it on there screens.

Find an image that has NICE DOF when seen with your desktop then find the image on cell phone. Poof DOF gone and the image is amazingly sharp.

Edited by Nalates Urriah
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